Broken pin in ecm

Lbzmaxx

Lbzmaxx

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Yeeeeeea so....
Installing my dsp switch and putting the power wire (red) wire in the ecim plug hole and it didn't seem as it was sitting just right so I (carefully) pulled it back out and the clip part of the red wire was missing on the wire (connector) needless to say the clip is lodged in the hole I ground down a very small screw driver to push it up from the back side the driver went through but the piece must be lodged in a groove needles to say I thought o well I'll just use the black wire pin.....yea that would be great if the piece wasent lodged in where the pin has to click in so I stripped the red wire and folded the wire in half and ran it though the pin hole and it made it out the other side to make (connection) now my problem is it only makes a solid connection if I move the harness so being said I now have connection but it's not stable. ANY Ideas would be great short of splicing new Ecim plug on:eek::confused:
 
2004LB7

2004LB7

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Did the pin break or did the wire just pull out of the crimp?

Can you just push it out from the ECM side towards the wire/harness?
 
Lbzmaxx

Lbzmaxx

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The pin broke
So then I used a tiny screw driver I found down to goin the back side to try to remove it from the ecm side the driver made it all the way through so I tried the black wire because that was still in good shape it has a new clip that wore would not seat halfway down there for not locking it I am assuming the broken clip from the red wire is lodged inside of the ECM plug plastic where the clip should lock into..so I think the lock is full of a broken part of the clip from the red wire

I was able to strip the wire about an inch and a half long fold it in half and feed it all the way through the hole on the plug which work I get Power but if I wiggled the harness while watching my scan tool I'll lose power and it comes back so that tells me it's a bad connection because it's not near as tight as it would be with the clip in there so I'm trying to figure out how I can make it tighter in the pinhole

I have called about three different companies one SoCal diesel to ATP and a lot of research on the Internet so far and I cannot find That there is a Nother place to splice into I just think it's odd that out of all the wires under the hood there's only one single spot that I can tie into that will accomplish what I need to have done
 
Lbzmaxx

Lbzmaxx

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Ok thanks I don't have that exact one but some similar I got out of the shop
Problem is it's lodged in the plastic where it locks in
 
Lbzmaxx

Lbzmaxx

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Is there another way that anyone has figured out other than going in the ecm plug or even a differnt slot that works for the dsp power wire??
 
clrussell

clrussell

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Lbzmaxx said:
Is there another way that anyone has figured out other than going in the ecm plug or even a differnt slot that works for the dsp power wire??
Click to expand...

Use an edge cts to switch tunes is the other option..
 
2004LB7

2004LB7

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Was this pin for the ground side of the switch?

If not I would probably just put a new pin on the wire push it in to the harness connector and put a drop of super glue on it to hold the pin in place if the connector was not holding it.
 
Lbzmaxx

Lbzmaxx

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That is my next step more than likely

Called local dealer $70 for new plug just the plastic part but it would be intense to Re pin the entire plug

My worry is in the back of my mind I will always be thinking that it has lost connection if I do a fix like glueing or somthing along those lines hate half way doing somthing.

Can't believe I even did it I litterly had a job as a repairman in the shop with these plugs hence why I know I screwd up it sure is a buzz kill when things like this happen
 
weazel

weazel

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pull the harness plug apart. if anything to get a better view of where the broken part of the pin is at. shoot, you may get lucky and it fall right out..
 
Lbzmaxx

Lbzmaxx

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weazel said:
pull the harness plug apart. if anything to get a better view of where the broken part of the pin is at. shoot, you may get lucky and it fall right out..
Click to expand...

Does It comes apart more than just the top plastic cover wich has the camlock lever?

with that removed you can see the top of the wires where they go in

It would be nice if the plug would separate with out de-pinning the whole plug
 
Lbzmaxx

Lbzmaxx

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I did actually get my switch working by feeding the wire through the terminal but it still has me Leary to wiggle loose over time definitely not a perminant fix

I did try with a sewing needle to see what I could do but there is a snag in there I just can't clear out try again when it warms up. At least for now I got my EFi working sure is better than the edge evo I had

P2610 had showed up in the codes after that figured maybe somthing wiggled around with all the movement... looked it up seems to be not a serious code lots of posts say don't worry about it
 
c20elephant

c20elephant

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Apr 25, 2013
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Don't forget to apply some silicone grease (dielectric grease) to all these types of connections. I have dis-connected, greased and re-connected the majority of under hood connectors/connections on my truck since I purchased it.

This prevents the build up moisture, arcing of the connections at the pins and ease of removal and re-installation. I usually have a tube in the garage and have been doing this for last 25+ years.....:thumb:

EDIT;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MbwQPEDTF8
 
c20elephant

c20elephant

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weazel

weazel

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Lbzmaxx said:
Does It comes apart more than just the top plastic cover wich has the camlock lever?

with that removed you can see the top of the wires where they go in

It would be nice if the plug would separate with out de-pinning the whole plug
Click to expand...

I'm trying to remember what the lbz/lmm connectors look like, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but they can be pulled a little further apart farther than just the plastic cover. I believe there is a green or blue fork pin you can pull and break the connector down further. I'd have to see one to remember.
 
Lbzmaxx

Lbzmaxx

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Jun 16, 2016
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c20elephant said:
Don't forget to apply some silicone grease (dielectric grease) to all these types of connections. I have dis-connected, greased and re-connected the majority of under hood connectors/connections on my truck since I purchased it.

This prevents the build up moisture, arcing of the connections at the pins and ease of removal and re-installation. I usually have a tube in the garage and have been doing this for last 25+ years.....:thumb:

EDIT;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MbwQPEDTF8
Click to expand...

Yes planned on that when I know I'm good to good but thanks for the reminder always easy to forget somthing that can cause a problem down the road
 
Lbzmaxx

Lbzmaxx

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weazel said:
I'm trying to remember what the lbz/lmm connectors look like, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but they can be pulled a little further apart farther than just the plastic cover. I believe there is a green or blue fork pin you can pull and break the connector down further. I'd have to see one to remember.
Click to expand...



The u tube videos c20elephant sent have the lbz plug in the video if I could figure out how to attach images I would send some
I had looked pretty thouroly and did not see any more clips or pins
 
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