Bought a Sierra as Donortruck - now he stay
- Thread starter Phoenix-LH
- Start date
i didnt expect it also
under this condition we think twice about reuse parts
But for that it need to know how solid is a new one
Not much progress until now as all time is going to finish the CUCV
Damned thinking twice again if i will swap a lightway NP208 to NP205... Specially if you have only 2 and a "half" hand (male+female).
Nevertheless it was worth it
Last week we took the tires of the rims to sandblasting them
not our favorite rims but what we have there. Still hard to find suitable rims with road approval in Germany
the frame is still in our shop. Now bring the frame to a sandblastingshop and havnt time to paint is a foolish idea...
Just thought also about Chemical derusting but it is very expensive
So we go with sandblasting and a good primer, paint and underbody protection.
We will not live long enough that this will go down during our live
our son will have the trouble with it after we gone
Damned thinking twice again if i will swap a lightway NP208 to NP205... Specially if you have only 2 and a "half" hand (male+female).
Nevertheless it was worth it
Last week we took the tires of the rims to sandblasting them
not our favorite rims but what we have there. Still hard to find suitable rims with road approval in Germany
the frame is still in our shop. Now bring the frame to a sandblastingshop and havnt time to paint is a foolish idea...
Just thought also about Chemical derusting but it is very expensive
So we go with sandblasting and a good primer, paint and underbody protection.
We will not live long enough that this will go down during our live
our son will have the trouble with it after we gone
its not about avialability of wheels - its up on the law here. Aftermarket parts needs a technical certification in Germany without you will lost the streetlegal of your vehicle. None of aftermarket parts of the USA have here any technical certification. You can take an US Certification and ask if this is accepted for the street legal, usually its difficult and so we are looking for wheels here which have done this certification by a german dealer.
We can also ask with the technical specification of wheels for a streetlegality here. We need load-index, of course right size of bolt pattern (no problem as there exist enough) and the right tiresize - all must fit in without scratching and rubbing anywhere specially under load and taking advantage of the spring deflection. There is always a risk that these purchased wheels will not got streetlegatlity. So we prefer first to check wheels who had this
All prepare for next step Frame Sandblasting next week
I have done also some research about a new trailer hitch
For future i want the have the option about the full allowed trailer load which is here 1.5x full loaded Truck weight (= trailer load around 7 Ton with a connected brakesystem) So the new trailer hitch should be able to manage that. It is also possible by improving the brakesystem to go with more trailer load/connected brakesystem dependent of course which trailer hitch is registered for roadapproval.
I found Curt and another recommondation was Torklift.
Original was Northern stamping at the truck. This one have in germany roadlicence for a trailer load of 3 to not more as it fit not in the next class 3.5 to (max Load 3.4 to). This trailer hitch was much rusted, the connector was not more removable. So we decide to go with a new and stronger one.
I have done also some research about a new trailer hitch
For future i want the have the option about the full allowed trailer load which is here 1.5x full loaded Truck weight (= trailer load around 7 Ton with a connected brakesystem) So the new trailer hitch should be able to manage that. It is also possible by improving the brakesystem to go with more trailer load/connected brakesystem dependent of course which trailer hitch is registered for roadapproval.
I found Curt and another recommondation was Torklift.
Original was Northern stamping at the truck. This one have in germany roadlicence for a trailer load of 3 to not more as it fit not in the next class 3.5 to (max Load 3.4 to). This trailer hitch was much rusted, the connector was not more removable. So we decide to go with a new and stronger one.
Last edited:
No way back, time for truth approaching
Brought the frame tuesday to the sandblasting shop - will be not ready before next week
Enough time to rearrange the workshop to finally place the frame in its assembly place
Brought the frame tuesday to the sandblasting shop - will be not ready before next week
Enough time to rearrange the workshop to finally place the frame in its assembly place
Still not purchased a hitch. First i will got the truck back on the wheels again and i want a clearly ok from the engineer for the roadapproval. I have ask for the torklift super hitch 20k original. I expect a positive response as also the nothern stamping was accepted. All three german torklift dealer dont have hitches in their offer.
They import only smartsteps from torklift... Doesnt matter as torklift have also international shipment. The hitch will be a part which come just before roadlicence again. But as i know about the formals and the roadapproval is it wise to go as early as possible in that issue which is allow here.
Last edited:
Time for some artwork
in memory of Scotty Star Trek 3: "Here, Doctor, souvenirs from one surgeon to another"
For a good friend build from the worn out parts of the remanufactored 6.2. Diesel Engine of our M1008 (Engine had a head-damage on Cyl 7/8 the usual death of a lot of 6.2./TH400 combos which are used on Highways)
Thanks V8 i have still the option of 3 other sculptures
in memory of Scotty Star Trek 3: "Here, Doctor, souvenirs from one surgeon to another"
For a good friend build from the worn out parts of the remanufactored 6.2. Diesel Engine of our M1008 (Engine had a head-damage on Cyl 7/8 the usual death of a lot of 6.2./TH400 combos which are used on Highways)
Thanks V8 i have still the option of 3 other sculptures
How heavy and how often are you going to tow? It's usually recommended to box in the rear frame section where the hitch mounts, many stories of the bottom of the frame rails bending
none commercial, we are just privat and have to care for our drafthorses
So all you need for manage the stable
As we have not trailer with more load than 3.5 to is that just now our limit and we need it around 2-3 times a month with full load.
Here is not more allow than max. 7 to trailer with a connected brakesystem on the truck
For the better sale option here we decided to go with a trailer hitch which also allow the maximum of tow capacity
If it is recommondated to box the frame, than we should think about it also if the frame is 15 years old, rusty and sandblasted. Thanks for this info.
By the way this was also the recommondation for the M1008 if we had swap the LBZ in the old squarebody. But about all other necessary upgrades to got the old squarebody chassis ready for 360 PS or decrease LBZ HP on 280 HP for a german Roadapproval does we skip this and descided to go with both trucks. One as oldtimer and the other as our working truck
The first smaller parts from the frame are sandblasted by myself
Coming out pretty good - so i should not much worried about the complete frame...
By the way i drove for our Chevy yesterday to a driveshaft shop in Germany as we need after swap a 4L80e/NP205 Combo instead TH400/NP208 new fitting driveshafts. We dont want to destroy the original one for customizing because we save the original drivetrain about the original parts for 100% Oldtimer Value, also if we dont want use them. We asking for new manufactored driveshafts.
It was more difficult as expected. In fact are double CV Heads not common here. The other connections and the shifting in the cardan shaft after changing from slipyoke to U-Yoke was not a problem but the material. In the USA is thinner material used for the tubes than here. This increase the weight which involve the safety. We got a longer talk with an advice and we found a solution for it. Here in Germany we have a high customer protection. The manufactorer is forced for warranty to advice and explain all about the risk and the possible Solutions by having always the safety in the point. The build what you want of course but than you have to sign a paper that you got it against advice of an engineer of driveshafts. So we are on a safe way to follow their advice. We have only to support the shop with the necessary Double Cardan CV head as the have not source to got it as they have no business contact for that issue. This doesnt matter as after importing 95% of the spare parts from our Chevy does we have a really good importing expierence. Not a cheap solution but this is the way to go with our Oldtimer Project about the Investment in a complete Frame Off restoration. There are only less which gone this far way in a restoration for that Truck. After more an more gone lost by User which destroy the original condition or let the truck go down of age will the value increase by every year which pass. Just now the Prices go up more and more for them in original historical correct condition.
Something we will also go with the Sierra.
Coming out pretty good - so i should not much worried about the complete frame...
By the way i drove for our Chevy yesterday to a driveshaft shop in Germany as we need after swap a 4L80e/NP205 Combo instead TH400/NP208 new fitting driveshafts. We dont want to destroy the original one for customizing because we save the original drivetrain about the original parts for 100% Oldtimer Value, also if we dont want use them. We asking for new manufactored driveshafts.
It was more difficult as expected. In fact are double CV Heads not common here. The other connections and the shifting in the cardan shaft after changing from slipyoke to U-Yoke was not a problem but the material. In the USA is thinner material used for the tubes than here. This increase the weight which involve the safety. We got a longer talk with an advice and we found a solution for it. Here in Germany we have a high customer protection. The manufactorer is forced for warranty to advice and explain all about the risk and the possible Solutions by having always the safety in the point. The build what you want of course but than you have to sign a paper that you got it against advice of an engineer of driveshafts. So we are on a safe way to follow their advice. We have only to support the shop with the necessary Double Cardan CV head as the have not source to got it as they have no business contact for that issue. This doesnt matter as after importing 95% of the spare parts from our Chevy does we have a really good importing expierence. Not a cheap solution but this is the way to go with our Oldtimer Project about the Investment in a complete Frame Off restoration. There are only less which gone this far way in a restoration for that Truck. After more an more gone lost by User which destroy the original condition or let the truck go down of age will the value increase by every year which pass. Just now the Prices go up more and more for them in original historical correct condition.
Something we will also go with the Sierra.
We visit our enginebuilder last saturday to fix the Transport-Engine-Stand vor our Duramax and to talk about the next steps.
It sit several months as he had no time to check as he had before our Engine others orders to do. Now he is in a moving issue with the shop.
He will start after moving with our engine.
First step is to check all values for the healthy condition. Plan is not to open all if it is not necessary.
So compression test will done twice and check of the common rail system. ECM control is another part.
We decide to go with always with the future option to increase HP if the Allison is rebuild
The German Road licence process make here more than 500 HP impossible about the changes on Frame, Brake and Suspension (very expensive and not really necessary)
We dont notice any of the knowm Engine Failures from the LBZ, that mean not that all is ok.
It will be of course also checked if there was made Upgrades on the Glowplug-Controller and we have also the EGR Vale in mind. We will not remove as we have here Emissioncontrol and need it for Roadlicence. The Chevy M1008 is registered without the EGR which was 30 years ago possible. Today you will have also problems to register this engine new without the EGR.
Now he is safe in transport
as you cant reach it easiely we decide also to go with a new turbo. This one go for 147000 Miles. Makes now problems and run fine, but sit now for a year! Can stay for the next 150000 Miles or just break down a month after put the engine back in.
After i know today how hard it is to got the engine out without disambling the half truck include the cab...
It can be a solid, reliable stock turbo which is good for 550 HP as we never will go about 500 HP here of the restrictions.
Is there any recommondation from you here in the group? Did we miss an important point?
The trip was by 6.5 l /100 km/h Diesel with our Volvo XC not that expensive. In the future it will be more with the Sierra. But it will have also more fun
It sit several months as he had no time to check as he had before our Engine others orders to do. Now he is in a moving issue with the shop.
He will start after moving with our engine.
First step is to check all values for the healthy condition. Plan is not to open all if it is not necessary.
So compression test will done twice and check of the common rail system. ECM control is another part.
We decide to go with always with the future option to increase HP if the Allison is rebuild
- Downpipe upgrade
- Intake Upgrade
- new waterpump
- new oilpump
- Liftpump
The German Road licence process make here more than 500 HP impossible about the changes on Frame, Brake and Suspension (very expensive and not really necessary)
We dont notice any of the knowm Engine Failures from the LBZ, that mean not that all is ok.
It will be of course also checked if there was made Upgrades on the Glowplug-Controller and we have also the EGR Vale in mind. We will not remove as we have here Emissioncontrol and need it for Roadlicence. The Chevy M1008 is registered without the EGR which was 30 years ago possible. Today you will have also problems to register this engine new without the EGR.
Now he is safe in transport
as you cant reach it easiely we decide also to go with a new turbo. This one go for 147000 Miles. Makes now problems and run fine, but sit now for a year! Can stay for the next 150000 Miles or just break down a month after put the engine back in.
After i know today how hard it is to got the engine out without disambling the half truck include the cab...
It can be a solid, reliable stock turbo which is good for 550 HP as we never will go about 500 HP here of the restrictions.
Is there any recommondation from you here in the group? Did we miss an important point?
The trip was by 6.5 l /100 km/h Diesel with our Volvo XC not that expensive. In the future it will be more with the Sierra. But it will have also more fun
The transmission will slip with increased power before a larger turbo is necessary. If the engine sat for an extended period, the turbo should be usable if all the openings were covered. The only problem that might arise is the vanes sticking in the turbo, not difficult to fix. I would suggest getting new seals and bearings for the turbo and taking the OEM apart. A stock rebuilt turbo is around $1000, probably double that in your area from what I hear.
If you are planning to tow with 400+ rwhp I suggest reading up on the oil cooling thread on this site.
And lastly, if you're willing to do all the work with a frame off restoration, I'm sure you could manage a little upgrade to the Allison. They aren't difficult, and we can help
If you are planning to tow with 400+ rwhp I suggest reading up on the oil cooling thread on this site.
And lastly, if you're willing to do all the work with a frame off restoration, I'm sure you could manage a little upgrade to the Allison. They aren't difficult, and we can help
PureHybrid a larger turbo is not necessary as we are here restriction on increase power with a stock vehicle. Without frame, brake and suspension upgrades is here with 500 HP end of tuning. And as far i know is the stock turbo good for 550 HP. Honestly 360 HP are still enough on the road/traffic here but we also like to have a special Truck which not have anyone. I have checked on a replacement turbo. There are also aftermarket stock turbos which said they are rebuild with stronger and reliable parts. I am not sure if this is a serious offer or just said for make more money. Before another Turbo will be bought is the old one checked. If the old is in good condition will he stay. Until I know for sure, it is on the list of parts we are replacing.
Nothing is cheap if you like to drive special vehicles.
Other people go out for shopping, lunch, have holiday travels ... we take our money for our preference Truckparts
You have a lot of nice parts for the Trucks in USA but importing make it very expensive. So maybe it need some time until we have the Truck in the appearance we want.
We have expierence in remanufactoring the old TH400/700 but not in the newer Transmission like 4L80e or the Allison. We are not sure if we want go in that issue ourself. For our Chevy we decide not and bought a new remanufactored 4L80e.
We will take this in mind, Plan now is after cleaning outside and a big maintenance to bring it in the truck again and doing the upgrade later if the transmission worn out.
The engine will be tuned not about 400 HP until we have the Allison updated, but he shall prepare for it.
We let it open, during go through all Frame- and Bodywork can it be that we decide to do the Allison Update also now as it is much easier to bring Engine and Transmission in the frame without cab and bed.
Which oilcooling thread did you mean, there are several?
I know that a recommondation said exchange the transmission oil cooling lines as they are often leaky in stock condition
Our 4L80e got a corresponding 4x4 converter and a larger transmission cooler with a focus on trailer operation. The same will be the order for an Allison rebuild.
Tomorrow we will got back the frame from sandblasting so that the restoration of our chevy will got a break. Today we build in the new Duramax Fan on the old 6.2 Diesel. First they send the wrong fan and than it seems they deliver by rowboat as it need more than 3 months to my door
Nothing is cheap if you like to drive special vehicles.
Other people go out for shopping, lunch, have holiday travels ... we take our money for our preference Truckparts
You have a lot of nice parts for the Trucks in USA but importing make it very expensive. So maybe it need some time until we have the Truck in the appearance we want.
We have expierence in remanufactoring the old TH400/700 but not in the newer Transmission like 4L80e or the Allison. We are not sure if we want go in that issue ourself. For our Chevy we decide not and bought a new remanufactored 4L80e.
We will take this in mind, Plan now is after cleaning outside and a big maintenance to bring it in the truck again and doing the upgrade later if the transmission worn out.
The engine will be tuned not about 400 HP until we have the Allison updated, but he shall prepare for it.
We let it open, during go through all Frame- and Bodywork can it be that we decide to do the Allison Update also now as it is much easier to bring Engine and Transmission in the frame without cab and bed.
Which oilcooling thread did you mean, there are several?
I know that a recommondation said exchange the transmission oil cooling lines as they are often leaky in stock condition
Our 4L80e got a corresponding 4x4 converter and a larger transmission cooler with a focus on trailer operation. The same will be the order for an Allison rebuild.
Tomorrow we will got back the frame from sandblasting so that the restoration of our chevy will got a break. Today we build in the new Duramax Fan on the old 6.2 Diesel. First they send the wrong fan and than it seems they deliver by rowboat as it need more than 3 months to my door
Oil cooling
Thought I would start a new thread on this and it's importance. How many have been watching and regulating the oil temps in these trucks? What have you seen in stock mode and/or higher tune modes (list configuration of motor mods with stock turbo, twins, triples, dual fuelers, towing what...
www.duramaxdiesels.com
I was referencing engine oil cooling, transmission temp probably won't be an issue
That's where a bulk of the oil cooling talk has taken place, but there is 10 years worth of talk to wade through. Probably just have to search for individual questions. Best bet is to run an oil filter adapter and a good cooler out by the radiator.
The 500+ hp potential of the OEM turbocharger is stretched out there, exhaust temperature will be extremely high. 400 is a reasonable goal
Thanks PureHybrid
our first aim is in rebuild of the engine to have a reliable and safe rebuild with only what is necessary to exchange. If the engine is healthy in the test it dont need to remanufactoring all like we done on the 6.2 Engine. In Case of the 6.2 does he got all recommondated upgrades after a heat damage with complete remanufactoring to prevent it again of the wellknown reasons on that Type. Also if this engine is a "simple" build in compare to the Duramax was this done by an enginebuilder alone of the huge choice on parts you can use. To pick up the best part you need is it necessary to have the knowledge on american brands and the market. Our enginebuilder does have this expierence. So it was for us a wise decision to gave this to a person who have that knowledge.
The same route will we go with the Duramax. This engine have not damage and run well before he was pulled out the truck, nevertheless before bring him back on the truck will he checked deaply and exchange all known weak points with the option to improve HP later if we really want it. I dont want miss now something and have later more costs to do it twice.
The 500+ hp potential of the OEM turbocharger is stretched out there, exhaust temperature will be extremely high. 400 is a reasonable goal -
- I expect that our enginebuild know about that issue and he should choose the right parts to have a reliable and strong engine with an option on a later tuning as he will give warranty on his job. It costs a lot of money but it is spent only one time. He mentioned already that increase HP will result with every HP more in higher costs with the additional needed features.
We will done all the Body, Frame and Suspension jobs but will leave the Engine and Transmission on a professional. It is also a question of time. We are now working on the Chevy Frame off restoration 3 years... and the Sierra will not be less time consuming.
our first aim is in rebuild of the engine to have a reliable and safe rebuild with only what is necessary to exchange. If the engine is healthy in the test it dont need to remanufactoring all like we done on the 6.2 Engine. In Case of the 6.2 does he got all recommondated upgrades after a heat damage with complete remanufactoring to prevent it again of the wellknown reasons on that Type. Also if this engine is a "simple" build in compare to the Duramax was this done by an enginebuilder alone of the huge choice on parts you can use. To pick up the best part you need is it necessary to have the knowledge on american brands and the market. Our enginebuilder does have this expierence. So it was for us a wise decision to gave this to a person who have that knowledge.
The same route will we go with the Duramax. This engine have not damage and run well before he was pulled out the truck, nevertheless before bring him back on the truck will he checked deaply and exchange all known weak points with the option to improve HP later if we really want it. I dont want miss now something and have later more costs to do it twice.
The 500+ hp potential of the OEM turbocharger is stretched out there, exhaust temperature will be extremely high. 400 is a reasonable goal -
- I expect that our enginebuild know about that issue and he should choose the right parts to have a reliable and strong engine with an option on a later tuning as he will give warranty on his job. It costs a lot of money but it is spent only one time. He mentioned already that increase HP will result with every HP more in higher costs with the additional needed features.
We will done all the Body, Frame and Suspension jobs but will leave the Engine and Transmission on a professional. It is also a question of time. We are now working on the Chevy Frame off restoration 3 years... and the Sierra will not be less time consuming.
Got the Frame home today - Picture was made in the sandblasting shop
We needed 3 hours for the first layer Zinq-Epoxy-Primer
the rust-scars will be saved now and we can build up on the Zinq-Epoxy Primer a paint and later the Underbody Protection
We needed 3 hours for the first layer Zinq-Epoxy-Primer
the rust-scars will be saved now and we can build up on the Zinq-Epoxy Primer a paint and later the Underbody Protection
After one layer brushed and one layer sprayed zinq-epoxy-Primer followed one layer brushed and one layer sprayed black paint.
We dont care that we produced two color runners as you will not see them except you lay under the truck and search for them
still a bit wet - we make for today a break as we dont want have more dust and dirt on it as necessary. Working in the shop while the paint is drying is not a wise descision.
We have no vehicle paint booth so the paint have not that high surface quality like a from a professional paint shop.
We dont care that we produced two color runners as you will not see them except you lay under the truck and search for them
still a bit wet - we make for today a break as we dont want have more dust and dirt on it as necessary. Working in the shop while the paint is drying is not a wise descision.
We have no vehicle paint booth so the paint have not that high surface quality like a from a professional paint shop.
Last edited: