Blocker Plate and Downpipe Help PLEASE?!

[J_Stone06]

I have looked but can't find a good walk-through for installing the EGR blocker plate and installing an upgraded downpipe. I started to pull off the stock downpipe and realized I got in over my head due to some of the locations of the bolts. I also don't see how it is possible to get to the bolts on the EGR to slide the blocker plate in??? Holy cow, it is literally against the firewall. One more thing, how the HELL do you get the heat shield off the turbo?? If anyone has any idea, please share with me as I would like to not spend an entire weekend doing these tasks. Thanks a million, zillion.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Jack up the passenger side and support it.
Remove the wheel
Remove the fender liner
Remove the V-band clamp on the lower connection of the down-pipe
You don't need to remove the heat shield, but if ya want to, ya have to bend it down in the middle and sorta in the shape of an "M" and it will come out...otherwise
Remove the uppipe heat shield
Get to the v-band on the turbine/exhaust side of the turbo and remove the clamp, it can be done, ratcheting box ends makes all of this job 100x easier IMHO
Pull the downpipe straight back while lightly wiggling to loosen it, but it will only pull out "directly" it's a tight fit
Soak the bolts of the egr uppipe extension in penetrant (before you start everything else to give it time to work) and break those bad boys free and back them out
Bevel the edges of the blocker plate so they're slightly tapered
Use a flathead to pry the egr connection apart and leave it in the bottom side to keep it apart or even temporarily place a washer or something there to leave the connection separated to install the blocker plate
Slide the blocker plate into its slot, make sure the gasket is on the uppipe side of the connection or it will leak
Tap the blocker plate into place

The first time I took my downpipe out it was a bear. It took me a couple hours. Now it takes me about 15 minutes and I don't think I have to even remove my tire anymore, but it's pretty helpful.

You can leave the uppipe heat shield off upon reinstallation but I wouldn't run without the turbo heat shield

I might have left something out...
Also, having a buddy really helps for separating the egr connection and extra hands installing the blocker plate, and opening beers, lol

I've never done one on an LMM, only LBZ's and I've heard the LMM's are more difficult. On my personal truck I just did the whole delete and modded uppipe.

Good luck :thumb:

 

[J_Stone06]

Jack up the passenger side and support it.
Remove the wheel
Remove the fender liner
Remove the V-band clamp on the lower connection of the down-pipe
You don't need to remove the heat shield, but if ya want to, ya have to bend it down in the middle and sorta in the shape of an "M" and it will come out...otherwise
Remove the uppipe heat shield
Get to the v-band on the turbine/exhaust side of the turbo and remove the clamp, it can be done, ratcheting box ends makes all of this job 100x easier IMHO
Pull the downpipe straight back while lightly wiggling to loosen it, but it will only pull out "directly" it's a tight fit
Soak the bolts of the egr uppipe extension in penetrant (before you start everything else to give it time to work) and break those bad boys free and back them out
Bevel the edges of the blocker plate so they're slightly tapered
Use a flathead to pry the egr connection apart and leave it in the bottom side to keep it apart or even temporarily place a washer or something there to leave the connection separated to install the blocker plate
Slide the blocker plate into its slot, make sure the gasket is on the uppipe side of the connection or it will leak
Tap the blocker plate into place

The first time I took my downpipe out it was a bear. It took me a couple hours. Now it takes me about 15 minutes and I don't think I have to even remove my tire anymore, but it's pretty helpful.

You can leave the uppipe heat shield off upon reinstallation but I wouldn't run without the turbo heat shield

I might have left something out...
Also, having a buddy really helps for separating the egr connection and extra hands installing the blocker plate, and opening beers, lol

I've never done one on an LMM, only LBZ's and I've heard the LMM's are more difficult. On my personal truck I just did the whole delete and modded uppipe.

Good luck :thumb:

Thanks buddy, I appreciate the input. When I looked up the backside where the downpipe heatshield is fastened to the block, it blew me away that they put that many bolts on it. I dont know how to reach the ones waaaaaay up high, It looks like the trans dipstick has two bolts that keep the trans tube assembly in place along with the 4 or 5 downpipe bolts( I may be exaggerating the number 1 or 2). I just dont know how to reach them is all. My EGR is literally almost right against the cab. Ever make it out to other areas in WA COCOAL? lol, you make it sound so easy

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Oops, I forgot about the trans tube, it needs to come out to remove the downpipe. It's held to the bell housing by two nuts and lifts up to come off, it's a beotch to get all the way out too.

I do get out to other areas, I'd be willing to help, where ya at? I live in western Wa near Redmond
I have not done this mod on an LMM and I've read it's a ill bit ore difficult.

 

[J_Stone06]

I live near Yelm man. I don't have a bunch of tools, but maybe just enough to accomplish the task though:rofl:. Is it bad I run my truck with no blocker plate in? I just ran outta time last weekend to finish

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Yelm huh, that's a trek...
If the egr valve is stuck open or in the open position constantly letting the exhaust gasses feed into the compressor, I'd say yes, it's bad to run it like that, the system is designed to recirculate those gasses intermittently tho. iirc the egr valve closes when the truck is shut off and if it's tuned for a blocker/delete the valve should be and stay shut, so it "shouldn't" be to big of an issue although the valve doesn't seal off perfectly and I believe open with the gas flow so some gasses would probably seep by, especially under full boost...but the egr cooler might get heat soaked with the constant gas pressure fed to it going nowhere. I dunno

I'm not sure how not running the plate would affect things if you're running a tune that shut the egr off tho, I'm by no means an expert. Do you have tuning and have you deleted the DPF?

I'd imagine having tuning shutting the egr off and not running the blocker plate while running the DPF, your DPF will accumulate soot faster and regen more frequently and yield poor fuel economy tho.

Again I'm no expert and, having the LBZ I really haven't familiarized myself with the emissions components that the LMM has as the LBZ doesn't have all the emissions the LMM has.

You don't need any special tools to do this mod, ratcheting box ends make quick work of most jobs and help to have.

You can do this
just plan on it taking a few hours and don't give up, I used to think these trucks were super complicated and insanely difficult to work on, but as it turns out most everything is pretty simple, it's just "layered work" there always seems to be one if not several things that needs to be removed to get to what ya want and everything is really tight so patience and creative thinking is a must

 

[ikeG]

Lmm's are a world of difference compared to lbz and older. Lots harder to get to this stuff!

 

[Ne-max]

This is why most guys do the downpipe when doing the trans. Don't worry about the blocker plate tell you get your down pipe off. It will make it real easy then. A 7/16 ratcheting wrench with swivel head will be your best friend. I myself suggest taking off the heat shield first.

 

[J_Stone06]

This is why most guys do the downpipe when doing the trans. Don't worry about the blocker plate tell you get your down pipe off. It will make it real easy then. A 7/16 ratcheting wrench with swivel head will be your best friend. I myself suggest taking off the heat shield first.

How did you remove that stupid heat shield?

 

[tracygto]

I have a sinister diesel LMM egr blocker plate,hardware,u bend hose and some hardware for sale if anyone interested.call me at 419-278-0059 tracy guelde

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

How did you remove that stupid heat shield?

First unbolt it. Then you can either cut it in half or bend it in the shape of an M and it will slide out...

There is only one bolt holding the down pipe in place at the turbo on the V band clamp. Loosen it and the DP will basically fall off if the Vband at the doc is off and the manifold bolt is out...

I wouldn't waste my time on a blocker plate, they will eventualy leak and it is annoying. I would either buy another stock uppipe and cut off the egr riser and weld it shut or buy an upipe that has already been cut and welded...