Bio Diesel Tips
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I'm curious about this too. Anybody know if this will speed up injector failures in the good old lb7s?
We ran bio fuel in my dads Lbz for a year or so a while back, milage dropped and we had to change the fuel filter pretty often so it wasn't real cost effective. Seems like we made around 25 gallons at a time. It was like 20 gallon veggie oil, 5 gal kerosene, 2 gallons of diesel kleen, and some special secret additive we bought from an online company. Been a while, could be wrong on those #s
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We ran bio fuel in my dads Lbz for a year or so a while back, milage dropped and we had to change the fuel filter pretty often so it wasn't real cost effective. Seems like we made around 25 gallons at a time. It was like 20 gallon veggie oil, 5 gal kerosene, 2 gallons of diesel kleen, and some special secret additive we bought from an online company. Been a while, could be wrong on those #s
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I was have always been under the assumption that biodiesel was a better lubricant. So being filtered as fine or finer than petro diesel, it should be better for the LB7 injectors than our current junk fuel.
Biodiesel is also a cleaner so it will clean all the algae out of the fuel system. This should go away as the algae is eliminated.
Biodiesel is also a cleaner so it will clean all the algae out of the fuel system. This should go away as the algae is eliminated.
Filtering it is the hard part though if you're using used oil (only cost effective thing to do) I remember we filtered it 5 times before it even got put in the trucks fuel tank. It went through a screen when pulled from the resturaunt tanks, then pumped through one set of pool filters (don't remember micron, they were cartridge type) then into the mixing barrel, then filtered again through finer filters, then through one more filter and finally a water separator. We'd have to change all those filters every other time we made fuel, then we'd still have to change the filter in the truck every couple thousand miles. Even after alternating bio fuel and diesel. With a better filtering system I think it'd be viable and cost effective, we just kind of lost interest at the time because my dads truck was the only diesel we had and it wasn't worth redoing our system for just him because the stuff doesn't store well.
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This thread has really got me thinking, and I believe I'm going to put my tax return toward a home biodiesel system. Leaning toward this company and their 40 gallon processor. (top one on page) according to the site the fuel can be made for around a dollar a gallon, assuming the used veggie oil is free. Between me and my dads driving itd save us each around 50-60 $$ a week! 
So the system would pay for itself in less than 3 months.
Anybody know how much if any power would be lost running biofuel? And would any tuning changes need to be made?
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So the system would pay for itself in less than 3 months. Anybody know how much if any power would be lost running biofuel? And would any tuning changes need to be made?
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What you made before was not what I'd consider biodiesel but rather a just a variant of SVO (straight vegetable oil). The kit you are talking about uses reactants with the UVO (used veg oil) & the end product is biodiesel.
If you have a good, cheap supply of lye, methanol, UVO & TIME, it's a no-brained to run biodiesel... Even if you don't run B100, you can still saves lot of money over time.
Do you have a secure supply of UVO? You'll get about 1 gal of biodiesel for every 1.2-1.5 gal of UVO iirc. The systems I've seen made 20 gal batches using 25 gal of UVO & about 2-5 gal of methanol & iirc.
Look up "Appleseed biodiesel". It's a homebrew kit using an old/new hot water heater rather than the nicely setup/automated, expensive kits if you want to get into it cheaply just see if it's going to be lucretive for you. And if so, you can splurge on the nice automated kits.
If you have a good, cheap supply of lye, methanol, UVO & TIME, it's a no-brained to run biodiesel... Even if you don't run B100, you can still saves lot of money over time.
Do you have a secure supply of UVO? You'll get about 1 gal of biodiesel for every 1.2-1.5 gal of UVO iirc. The systems I've seen made 20 gal batches using 25 gal of UVO & about 2-5 gal of methanol & iirc.
Look up "Appleseed biodiesel". It's a homebrew kit using an old/new hot water heater rather than the nicely setup/automated, expensive kits if you want to get into it cheaply just see if it's going to be lucretive for you. And if so, you can splurge on the nice automated kits.
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My concern would be the potential to take out CP3's or injectors over time using the bio due to poor filtration (one filter failure and there goes $1K, and don't forget that injector changes on LB7's is a real PITA compared to all the other models). I think if you lost any of those parts any "savings" from a bio fuel would be eaten up in hard parts and down time on the truck.
For me personally it will never work because of the waxing issues due to temperature. You guys in southern climates have that part taken care of already by mother nature.:thumb:
The comments above are geared towards a stock truck, if you have been twisting it up, I think you would simply compound the problems, but what do I know
For me personally it will never work because of the waxing issues due to temperature. You guys in southern climates have that part taken care of already by mother nature.:thumb:
The comments above are geared towards a stock truck, if you have been twisting it up, I think you would simply compound the problems, but what do I know
I agree, it was just straight oil for the most part. I am working on the used oil supply now before I buy anything. there's 3 restaurant owners that are family friends/customers so I think at least one of the three will hook me up. I just have to catch them at work, which is tricky. According to one article I read on the web Dino diesel is filtered from the pump to 5 microns when it goes into your truck. this system is said to be filtered to 2 micron before it even goes into the truck. How true that is, i do not know. Id probably add another 2 micron filter to the system regardless. I dont think it can be filtered to much. I would think I could use it about 10 months out of the year, then use regular diesel from like mid December to mid February.
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Is there documentation of biofuel killing injectors cause I've looked and can't find any? Not being rude just curious. If filtered properly I don't know how it could be any worse than Dino diesel
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I ran biodiesel for a year in my LBZ. My understanding as it actually cleans your fuel system which is part of the reason why the fuel filters in the beginning get clogged. My engine ran noticeably quitter and smoother. Fuel mileage did decrease along with a little HP and it smelled like burnt popcorn out the exhaust.
I used biodiesel in 6 different trucks and a tractor. One truck used it for over 100,000 miles. It makes more power and quiets the engine. No injector failures, no cp3 failures only the occasion plugged filter if it gelled from cold weather. The truck that ran it the most is a 06LBZ and has over 300'000 miles now.
If your looking to save money by running biodiesel, don't. Go to mcdonalds and get another job to pay for your fuel, you'll make more money there then trying to save money on making biodiesel. It's time consuming, makes a mess, and isn't fun.
If you want to make it anyway. Keep it hot 85-90 degrees, mix the methenal and lye then add that to the heated oil. Once the reaction is finished drain off the gliceren. Mist water over the top about 100 gallons to clean the diesel. Filter the biodiesel with a 2 micron absolute filter. And don't let it get below 50 degrees.
If your looking to save money by running biodiesel, don't. Go to mcdonalds and get another job to pay for your fuel, you'll make more money there then trying to save money on making biodiesel. It's time consuming, makes a mess, and isn't fun.
If you want to make it anyway. Keep it hot 85-90 degrees, mix the methenal and lye then add that to the heated oil. Once the reaction is finished drain off the gliceren. Mist water over the top about 100 gallons to clean the diesel. Filter the biodiesel with a 2 micron absolute filter. And don't let it get below 50 degrees.
Thanks for the inputs! I know it's going to take up a few hours but I'm ok with that, I'm off on weekends so I'll be able to devote some time to it. And i am in central Fl, heat is not a problem . Plus I'm getting a small outfit, only 40 gallons at a time so it'll be a little easier to handle. I think I've already got a supply of about 20 gallons of wvo a week lined up, hopefully I can get another supply of about the same and I'll be in business.
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. Plus I'm getting a small outfit, only 40 gallons at a time so it'll be a little easier to handle. I think I've already got a supply of about 20 gallons of wvo a week lined up, hopefully I can get another supply of about the same and I'll be in business. Sint frum tha orijinul smert fone
My truck definently didnt make more power on Biodiesel, if that was the case then everybody would be using it to race with. Everything else I agree with, its time consuming, stinks, and makes a hell of a mess. I also ran into the problem of people jacking my source of WVO.
It can't make more power than on road fuel, its BTU rating is lower. I would venture to guess though that if you were to cut it with additives and such, that it wouldn't do too poorly. But that cuts down the cost-effectiveness.
When my truck has less than 30k on it i ran 220 gallons of b100 through it one summer. (the summer diesel was over $5/gal I got the b100 for somewhere in the $3.7x) so I ran it with no ill effects. I would change you fuel filter every 500 miles for the first few tanks. mileage went down very slightly probly less than .5mpg and smelled like french fries when i drove. also normally grey / black smoke had a brown tint to it. also ran noticeably quieter and smoother.