Before I drop a $100 bucks on a sender

MACKIN

MACKIN

Smell My Finger...
Aug 14, 2006
3,948
1
0
Connecticut
Do you think that is what it is?

Autometer 15 PSI guage electric when I key up it drops to zero. Then rises to pressure reading created by the pumps. Then I start the vehicle and the guage freezes. Repeat repeat and then it will work?

It's been awhile 3-4-5 years since I installed it is there a box (brain) that is part of the wiring harness? If so could that be it? I'd hait to drop $200 bucks on a new guage.

I've had issue with vibration before are the new senders any better? Whats your opinion? :confused:
 
McRat

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
11,249
26
38
64
Norco CA
www.mcratracing.com
9 out of 10 times it's a bad connection if it works intermittently or in a bizarre fashion. All the digital pressure gauges I've used have no "brain" except the dataloggers. The sending units are pricey, but can be had through other sources if you can figure out the type. Mouser has hundreds of sending units that I've used for special projects.
 
MACKIN

MACKIN

Smell My Finger...
Aug 14, 2006
3,948
1
0
Connecticut
madmatt said:
what does your pressure rise to when the pump comes on?? Not sure if this is the cause but on 24V dodges, I've seen similar issues with a spike maxing out the gauge then it freezing when one of these snubbers is not installed. may need to replace the sender and install a snubber
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=212
Click to expand...

Snubber? What does it look like and or description? I have a 15 PSI guage and with dual pumps I get between 6-7 PSI. It doesn't peg out and a friend of mine has a 24V and his guage pegs and also it is mechanical not electric.

He does need a re-stricter or was told he does but his works fine. I can't believe that he has a mechanical guage in his truck in addition I believe he generates like 30 PSI . Can you imagine if it sprung a leak? :eek: :D

Anyway I did some more testing yesterday and today. What I did is un-ziptie the sender.

My setup:

1) Comes off the bleeder screw with a fitting to match threads to a hose barb fitting.
2) A short piece of fuel line
3) To another hose barb fitting screwed into sender
4) It was then ziptied to a AC line out of the way

Sounds complicated but it's not and perhaps a mess but it's not. I'm very picky!

When I installed this years ago I was told to do it that way as the sender has fits with vibration causing the condition I'm having. It worked fine for years this way. The only other issue is a air bubble in the fuel line but this only happens when I change filters. Which I haven't done in awhile

So what I did as I said was un-ziptie the hose and relocate the sender in the general area but instead of it lying horizontal I pushed the sender down to see if possible it had some trapped air. So far it has been working but I don't like it loose lying in the engine compartment. So I'm going to leave it there a bit longer and then find a place to secure it.

I'll see what happens,who knows
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom