I'm gonna be replacing the batteries in my truck soon. What's the proper procedure to follow? I'm thinking one at a time. Thanks. :baby:
Battery Replacement
- Thread starter coldLBZ
- Start date
Disconnect both negatives then both positives. When reconnecting, connect the positives first and then connect the negatives. That will prevent any short from arcing a hot positive to something else on the truck. If you have a factory radio, the presets should be saved in the radio. You would only need to set the clock.
.......... so there's a procedure? ??
Well I had both out at the same time....nuttin happened
what are you replacing them with?
Well I had both out at the same time....nuttin happened
what are you replacing them with?
I was going to go with Odyssey but they're pretty expensive. So for now I'm going to try these "Platinum" batteries from a parts store that a friend is running in his DMax. If they don't work out I'll go with Odyssey.
Bump
I finally got around to getting this done. I ended up going with those auto part store "Platinum" ones (800 cca). I did what JoshH posted and only had to reset the clock. FYI the terminals are 8mm, the hold downs are 13mm, and I had to remove a small bar from above the driv. side battery, those bolts were 10mm.
I finally got around to getting this done. I ended up going with those auto part store "Platinum" ones (800 cca). I did what JoshH posted and only had to reset the clock. FYI the terminals are 8mm, the hold downs are 13mm, and I had to remove a small bar from above the driv. side battery, those bolts were 10mm.
Hi Fellas.
Sorry to "piggy-back" on your thread ... but it's relative, I think.
I work at a rural NAPA store in Alberta Canada, and I have had a couple of calls from newer (2008+) Duramax owners.
NAPA catalog lists #48-9AGM (BCI Group 48 Absorbed Glass Mat construction) which of course are hella expensive.
Although not listed in the catalog for this application, NAPA also has a lead-acid battery #48-6 ... which is considerably less expensive.
Some stories have been floating around ... eluding to the fact that Lead-Acid batteries screw up your charging system ... etc.
Our battery rep tells us that AGM batteries were OPTIONAL on these trucks. He recommends them if it's a work truck that sits around idling, has a laptop, GPS, cell-phone, DVD, and an I-Pad (You know the type):roflmao:
So anyway ... I'm the "I'm from Missouri" type and thought I'd like to hear the opinions from the guys that know these trucks best ... you.
Thanks,
Don
Sorry to "piggy-back" on your thread ... but it's relative, I think.
I work at a rural NAPA store in Alberta Canada, and I have had a couple of calls from newer (2008+) Duramax owners.
NAPA catalog lists #48-9AGM (BCI Group 48 Absorbed Glass Mat construction) which of course are hella expensive.
Although not listed in the catalog for this application, NAPA also has a lead-acid battery #48-6 ... which is considerably less expensive.
Some stories have been floating around ... eluding to the fact that Lead-Acid batteries screw up your charging system ... etc.
Our battery rep tells us that AGM batteries were OPTIONAL on these trucks. He recommends them if it's a work truck that sits around idling, has a laptop, GPS, cell-phone, DVD, and an I-Pad (You know the type):roflmao:
So anyway ... I'm the "I'm from Missouri" type and thought I'd like to hear the opinions from the guys that know these trucks best ... you.
Thanks,
Don
INTERSTATE all the way baby! Best wet cell out there! Also if you get one of those 9 volt battery do-hickey thing-a-ma-bob thing that plugs into you cig port you lose no settings. Works great!
Interstate MTP-78
Interstate MTP-78
I had a Dodge cummins for years and ran Optimas. I like the fact I had no corosion and they lasted. I ran them for 8 yrs and they were still going strong when I sold the truck. I now have a duramaax and will replace the batteries with the AGMs when these fail. To me they are worth the added cost