Anti seize

[Budneeds2beers]

From past jobs ive found myself using anti seize on most bolts/studs when applicable. I primarily use copper base. Im a firm believer that it should be used on any similar metals and mating surfaces. Especially when it’s exposed to the elements. I also think it should be used to to cut the tension between the bolt and nut when torquing. I know not to use it when a nyloc is used...
Ive seen people use the nickle base for spark plugs. Maybe it holds up better to heat?

So whats the low down on the stuff. What base for certain applications? What sould it never be used on when assembling our trucks ( im talking about chassis and exterior parts not rotating assembly’s)? The reason im asking is i have surface rust nothing to bad but seised fasteners none the less. Im just curios about it on a mechanical aspect.

 

[Chevy1925]

when using it, the torque value of the bolt changes and i generally look them up before torquing unless its the only given torque (like ARP bolts/studs, you MUST use a lube). I use the nickle base, no particular reason other than thats what my auto teacher had us use and liked way back in high school. i think either one does the job well.

I like to use the stuff on brake pad guides (not the sliders on the calipers) where the pad edged ride in the caliper, on all the rod ends i use on my off road stuff to keep rust out, and on bolts that thread into parts (captured nuts or threaded parts) and i can, ill then double nut it. Usually those arent bolts required to keep things from flying off and killing little babies though.

usually im using red or blue loctite before anti-seize

 

[OregonDMAX]

From past jobs ive found myself using anti seize on most bolts/studs when applicable. I primarily use copper base. Im a firm believer that it should be used on any similar metals and mating surfaces. Especially when it’s exposed to the elements. I also think it should be used to to cut the tension between the bolt and nut when torquing. I know not to use it when a nyloc is used...
Ive seen people use the nickle base for spark plugs. Maybe it holds up better to heat?

So whats the low down on the stuff. What base for certain applications? What sould it never be used on when assembling our trucks ( im talking about chassis and exterior parts not rotating assembly’s)? The reason im asking is i have surface rust nothing to bad but seised fasteners none the less. Im just curios about it on a mechanical aspect.

The reason for using it on sparkplugs is because they are two dissimilar metals that expand at different rates. Pull some cheap plugs out of an aluminum head like an old Toyota and it will pull the threads out with it, seen that a few times.

I tend to use it with dissimilar metals and when heat is a factor, glowplug threads for instance. Exhaust manifold bolts are an absolute must imo. Even the joints on exhaust pipe it helps if you ever want to take it apart ever again.

 

[2004LB7]

From the Anti-Seize PDF: https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/how-to-choose-an-antiseize.pdf

COP-GRAF™: A general-purpose anti-seize compound. Blend of copper and graphite in a
petroleum base grease 1800°F.
Thousands of application uses, a great choice for general assembly applications.
• Protects against rust and corrosion
• Reduce friction
• Speeds up assembly and disassembly
• Retards galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals
• Compatible with all types of metals and most plastics
• Resist seizing, galling, and cold welding
• Non-hardening and non-dripping
• Resists salt water corrosion

Moly-LIT™: high lubricity, low coefficient of friction, heavy bearing loads. A blend of
molybdenum disulfide and graphite in a petroleum base grease 2400°F.
Resists extreme pressure applications. This low coefficient of friction prevents wear or
galling on gears or splines operating under high load at low speed.
• Non-Reactive, resistance to Chemicals and Extreme Corrosive Conditions
• No copper or aluminum.
• Long-term protection against rust and corrosion.
• Reduces friction on all metal surfaces.
• Protects load-bearing surfaces during critical wear-in.

ANTI-SEIZE SPECIAL™: General-purpose anti-seize compound. A blend of aluminum,
copper and graphite in a petroleum base grease 1800°F.
Properties similar to our COP-GRAF™ with the aluminum added for a better resistance to
corrosion.
• Protect against rust and corrosion
• Reduce friction
• Speed assembly and disassembly
• Retards galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals
• Compatible with all types of metals and most plastics
• Resist seizing, galling, and cold welding
• Non-hardening and non-dripping
• Resists salt water corrosion

NICKEL-GRAF™: Blend of nickel and graphite in a petroleum base grease 2600°F.
Recommended when very different metals are used together such as brass and steel or
where high nickel alloy metals like stainless steel are involved also use where soft reactive
metals such as copper cannot be present. Use where anti-seize may come into contact
with acids, chemicals.
• Delivers maximum protection from acids, caustics, chemicals, and extreme heat
• Eliminates galling and cold welding
• Reduces friction, lowers torque
• Provides nickel plating as a barrier between metal surfaces
• Protects against corrosion and oxidation
• Speeds assembly and disassembly

MARINE GRADE™ NON-METALLIC ANTI-SEIZE
• Different design features compared to a regular anti seize compound, think of a Marine
Grade as an anti seize compound on Steroids
• Our Marine Grade Non-Metallic was designed as a totally new product to give the Marine
Industry an anti-seize unlike most all other so called “Marine Grade” anti-seize products
which virtually eliminates corrosion due to dissimilar metals in a salt water environment.
• Contains semi-synthetic hybrid grease, which we engineered to provide a very high film
strength, which stands up to heavy loads without seizing or galling of the threads.
• Marine Grade has a somewhat tacky consistency which allows the product to tenaciously
adhere to your parts, wet or dry
• This product contains twice the rust and oxidation inhibitors than a standard anti seize
compound and they were specifically picked for both fresh and salt-water corrosion
resistance.
• High solids content packs the voids in threaded assemblies and provides a physical barrier
that prevents seizing or galling of the connection

ZINC ANTI-SEIZE™: Zinc dust and petrolatum compound 750°F.
For use on threaded joints, aircraft spark plugs, threaded steel parts assembled in
aluminum or zinc castings.
• Conforms to MIL-T-22361, MIL-AA-59313.
• Corrosion protection up to 750°F (399°C).
• Resists seizing in aluminum, aluminum alloys, and iron assemblies.

ALUMINUM PLATE™ COPPER PLATE™ NICKEL PLATE™ and MOLY PLATE™
Offer the same benefits of our other anti-seize compounds but are made with a synthetic base
grease which does not form abrasive carbon residue at high temperatures.
Anti-Seize Technology also offers two Food Grade Anti-Seize Compounds.

PURE WHITE™ w/PTFE 475°F
• Pure, tasteless, non-toxic, non-staining
• NSF H-1 and FDA approved
• PTFE insures maximum lubrication
• Superior anti-wear properties
• Excellent resistance to wash out

HI-TEMP FOOD GRADE™ 2100°F
• Pure, tasteless, non-toxic, and non-staining.
• NSF H-1 and FDA approved.
• May be used with potable water.
• High solid content for long life.
• Excellent resistance to wash out.

 

[Burn Down]

I use loctite high temp copper antiseeze on all exhaust components. I also use it on all my glow plugs.

 

[Dozerboy]

X2 even though it’s dried up on me a little bit mixed a little PB blaster in there without works now...


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[PureHybrid]

The last true copper looking anti-sieze I bought was from Crown #9123. We also use Bostik brand and it's considered a copper anti-sieze but it's grey in color. The crown stuff protects to a higher temp but doesn't handle loads very high.

Mostly anything you buy off the shelf from Loctite or Permatex will do the job on 99% of your jobs.

 

[BlkMax]

Be careful of the copper based anti-seize on aluminum components. I had an aluminum wheel crack from a wheel stud hole on an old 8 lug Suburban. That whole set of wheels had corrosion pitting on the aluminum coming from the holes. I had liberally used some copper based anti-seize (SS-30) on the studs, and it shot all over the wheels.

Anecdotal evidence at best, but copper is more noble than the aluminum, in the presence of water galvanic corrosion is possible, and the aluminum part will protect the copper in the anti-seize. OOPS!!

After all that, I use Permatex 80078 on my aluminum parts, and Jet Lube SS-30 (I have had the can forever, now I would probably get Kopr Kote) for everything else but spark plugs.

For spark plugs, I use what I used to for working on gasoline airplane engines, Champion Aerospace.

 

[OregonDMAX]

Well for one don't ever use antisieze on wheel studs.

But I don't use the copper shit on anything. The aluminum stuff works just fine and I've been using it for years, have gone back years later to remove stuff and had it come apart nicely.

 

[2004LB7]

I've put antiseize on my wheel studes plenty of times. Almost a necessity on my rear wheel studs or I could never get them off on the side of the road if I got a flat.

My 18mm studs would take several hundred lb/ft to remove without it

 

[Budneeds2beers]

2004lb7 great info. I agree. I always use it on my wheel studs. The silt beds, mild salty crust/dust, and water i drive through when off-roading would make it almost impossible to take lugs off. I mean I use it on mating surfaces like brake rotors so i can get them off the hub. Crazy about the rims though. Ill have to read up on that for sure i never thought about that.
Like I said i use it any chance I get especially on anything that has to do with water or is open to the elements. The only exception is if I don’t want the bolt to come loose like lets say a motor mount or anything that calls for a nylock nut.

James, when you use it for heim joints, do you just slather it on as a topical and apply a dust boot?

 

[Dozerboy]

I never had a problem with copper anti-seize on my stock aluminum wheels or my H2s. It sure pisses discount tire off that I put it on there though.


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[NC-smokinlmm]

Love the Maine grade stuff, I use it to assemble outboards since most parts are aluminum and fasteners are stainless...

 

[JoeyD]

I use this on everything I expect to come apart again, Wurth nickel anti seize

 

[Burn Down]

Im looking for some anti seize in bike shops to use on some pedals and can not seem to find it anywhere. Super cheap auto have some it seems but it seems to be a mixture of copper and graphite and something else and is for use on spark plugs....is that fine? Other than that its buying online and paying ridiculous postage. Anyone know a place in brisbane south/west that I can pick this up from.

I would think the copper graphite stuff will work just fine.

 

[2004LB7]

Just about any anti-seize will work for bike peddles. There is nothing unique to that application that requires anything special. Use what you can find and dont worry