ask them for the bob weights on the crank, rod weight numbers (big, small and combined) and final balance numbers. that information would be with every engine at min from their machine shop.
Another Broken Crank
- Thread starter OleBlackyLBZ
- Start date
Is Xcalibur the company that keeps on advertising on eBay for rebuilt/built duramax motors all the time? I see them come up and get taken down for violating terms and agreements.
I like using ARP myself but you'd be fine either way. At 650 there isn't a major need for ARP.
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Agreed go stock. I just did on mine and it'll see up to 750-800. You will have to line bore as the guys above said if you go with ARP as it distorts the main caps. If you think you'll dig into it again, studs will be cheaper in the long run. I'm not going to be pulling this engine in and out on the regular and not going to 1000+hp, hence why I just used new OEM hardware.
This is machine shop 101. I smell some BS on this one. I used a local shop in Reno who's been doing engines since my dad did racing back in the 70's. They balanced the rotating assy within 1g and gave me the bob weight printout and balance results sheet. Wagler rods had the rod weight numbers they used in their calcs and they added up the rings, pistons, pins, etc. Harmonic damage on yours is my bet after hearing they have no record, but that's just my 2c.
The guy did not even text me back, I expected that though.. he has my money so he couldn't care less now. I will NEVER do business with him again and I have a lot of friends with diesels that won't either. Customer service alone is reason enough