Advice needed

[jpowel29]

While I have the turbo swap going I am going to clean up the topside of the motor a little more.

I would like some advice (tips/tricks) from anyone who has already done the following:

I want to do away with the heater hoses - what works the best to cap off openings & cleanly remove them?

I also am thinking of removing the factory fuel filter assembly - what is the best way to re-route fuel lines? Any issues with removing this?

Thanks
John

 

[trashygasman]

just cut them off with your pocket knife, fold them over, and wrap them in duct tape.:laugh:

J/K John. I don't have a clue.

 

[Rhall]

While I have the turbo swap going I am going to clean up the topside of the motor a little more.

I would like some advice (tips/tricks) from anyone who has already done the following:

I want to do away with the heater hoses - what works the best to cap off openings & cleanly remove them?

I also am thinking of removing the factory fuel filter assembly - what is the best way to re-route fuel lines? Any issues with removing this?

Thanks
John

I just put a short piece of hose over the heater openings that made a loop.

 

[TheBac]

How about simple black Fernco rubber caps for the heater lines?

IIRC, you can bypass the OEM fuel filter assy and just run diesel-rated line straight to the FICM. Are you running a FASS-type system on the frame?

 

[Rhall]

How about simple black Fernco rubber caps for the heater lines?

IIRC, you can bypass the OEM fuel filter assy and just run diesel-rated line straight to the FICM. Are you running a FASS-type system on the frame?

He has an lbz, no ficm. Im not sure how lbzs route, i havent paid enought attention, but it shouldnt be a problem removing it, ill take a look at one today and see how to route the lines.

 

[paint94979]

He has an lbz, no ficm.

I wish we didn't have an external FICM

 

[Rhall]

I wish we didn't have an external FICM

I moved mine to the passenger fender, where the stock airbox goes, and dont run any fuel through it, so far i havent had a problem, it stays much cooler not being on the valve cover. I tried running coolant through it for a while, but i had problems with a leaky pump/hoses so i just ran it dry the rest of the year.

 

[paint94979]

I moved mine to the passenger fender, where the stock airbox goes, and dont run any fuel through it, so far i havent had a problem, it stays much cooler not being on the valve cover. I tried running coolant through it for a while, but i had problems with a leaky pump/hoses so i just ran it dry the rest of the year.

Couldn't we run a fan on it? Surely it must be cooler than 150* fuel

 

[Rhall]

Yeah, i will look into doing that when i have problems, but so far, i figure it has to stay a lot cooler just not setting on the valve cover, that has to make a huge difference, worth 100 degrees i would say.

 

[jpowel29]

How about simple black Fernco rubber caps for the heater lines?

IIRC, you can bypass the OEM fuel filter assy and just run diesel-rated line straight to the FICM. Are you running a FASS-type system on the frame?

I have a FASS with filters on the frame. I also have the ATS twin CP3 kit (but I did not install it) so I am a little unsure as to what needs to stay and what can go that plumbs over to the factory filter head.

I will look for some caps to block off the factory radiator ports to heater hoses as well.

 

[Vrabel]

if you eliminate the fuel filter, you can use the test port to bleed. thats what I did after I boogered threads on my filter head.

 

[jpowel29]

What is the best way to disconnect the heater hose from the fitting on the firewall without tearing something up.

I have been working on it outside (with the high today of 15deg) so I have not tried to feel around without my gloves off.

 

[TheBac]

He has an lbz, no ficm. Im not sure how lbzs route, i havent paid enought attention, but it shouldnt be a problem removing it, ill take a look at one today and see how to route the lines.

Oh crap. Sorry.

 

[TheBac]

Couldn't we run a fan on it? Surely it must be cooler than 150* fuel

Could also run a heat sink, like the 6.5 guys do with their PMDs. Just a thought.

 

[Rhall]

While I have the turbo swap going I am going to clean up the topside of the motor a little more.

I would like some advice (tips/tricks) from anyone who has already done the following:

I want to do away with the heater hoses - what works the best to cap off openings & cleanly remove them?

I also am thinking of removing the factory fuel filter assembly - what is the best way to re-route fuel lines? Any issues with removing this?

Thanks
John

Another thing you can do to make the engine look cleaner, is figure out what you need with your wiring harness and what you dont need, for example, do you use the glow plugs still? The intake heater? I took my plastic harness holder off, and taped up my harness with some good 3m electrical tape, and taped back everything i dont use, it makes it much easier to mess with, and gives you more room for getting around it. That plastic holder is just a pita if you ask me.

 

[jpowel29]

Another thing you can do to make the engine look cleaner, is figure out what you need with your wiring harness and what you dont need, for example, do you use the glow plugs still? The intake heater? I took my plastic harness holder off, and taped up my harness with some good 3m electrical tape, and taped back everything i dont use, it makes it much easier to mess with, and gives you more room for getting around it. That plastic holder is just a pita if you ask me.

yep - been thinking about doing that as well. I am still using the glow plugs but have been tempted to try running without them.

 

[Rhall]

yep - been thinking about doing that as well. I am still using the glow plugs but have been tempted to try running without them.

I ran without mine all year, started great all summer, even cool mornings, i think the lowest i tried was probably high 40s, and it had no problems at all, i imagine if it got down to the 20 or 30s, you might have to ether it a little.

 

[sweetdiesel]

What is the best way to disconnect the heater hose from the fitting on the firewall without tearing something up.

I have been working on it outside (with the high today of 15deg) so I have not tried to feel around without my gloves off.

You need the tool or need to make a tool....I bought the plastic ones for 5 bucks

Couldn't we run a fan on it? Surely it must be cooler than 150* fuel

TNR Green does that....I dont use anything to cool it

Another thing you can do to make the engine look cleaner, is figure out what you need with your wiring harness and what you dont need, for example, do you use the glow plugs still? The intake heater? I took my plastic harness holder off, and taped up my harness with some good 3m electrical tape, and taped back everything i dont use, it makes it much easier to mess with, and gives you more room for getting around it. That plastic holder is just a pita if you ask me.

X2

 

[ZeroGravity58]

im thinking about ditching the pass side battery any moving my FICM up there and deleting the factory filter head also. Just got to wait until it get alittle warmer out...

 

[ripmf666]

Once you loose the factory fuel filter head remove all the old fuel lines. You will need to run a -10 to the front from the pump and use a y fitting a dropit down to 2 -6 fittings to feed each cp3 pump. Then more -6 line for the return fittings off the cp3's a fuel block kinda like Simon runs that he got Trent there you will want to have the 2 cp3's return in to that or a fuel log would work also. Then you will need to get some adapter fitting and make your fuel temp sensor a new home since the factory return line will be gone. Then also add 2 1/8 barbed fittings to hook the 2 injector return lines into. Then you can reuse the facorty supply line as a new return cut lower and tube sleeve it or run all new -8 to the fuel cooler.