ABS problems

07lbzdirtymax

Member
Jun 24, 2013
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Boise, Idaho
So a while back my abs sensor was rubbing on something and ended up just breaking in half, I finally got around to replacing it yesterday while I was doing new rotors and pads. When I first plugged it in the Abs light went away and everything seemed fine. After about five minutes of driving it came back on and the brakes actually lock up under 5 mph. Now the light keeps turning off and coming back on again and locking the brakes up. Any help would be appreciated.


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IOWA LLY

Yes, its really me
Feb 23, 2007
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The sensor itself was rubbing? Or the wires?

If the sensor itself was damaged it was probably from a bad wheel bearing.

Either way, I've seen a lot of issues like you describe caused by a bad wheel bearing.

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07lbzdirtymax

Member
Jun 24, 2013
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Boise, Idaho
The wire was rubbing and it broke up top by where it plugs in. Id think the wheel bearing is fine it was just replaced a couple months ago and there's no play at all.


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07lbzdirtymax

Member
Jun 24, 2013
44
0
6
Boise, Idaho
The sensor itself was rubbing? Or the wires?

If the sensor itself was damaged it was probably from a bad wheel bearing.

Either way, I've seen a lot of issues like you describe caused by a bad wheel bearing.

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The wire was rubbing and it broke up top by where it plugs in. Id think the wheel bearing is fine it was just replaced a couple months ago and there's no play at all.



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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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how did you "fix it"

i would have the code checked to be sure its the same side your having issued with as well
 

THEFERMANATOR

LEGALLY INSANE
Feb 16, 2009
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What normally causes this is rust on the hub bearing surface where the speed sensor goes in prevents the sensor from dropping down all the way, and at slow speeds it loses signal from excess sensor gap.
 

07lbzdirtymax

Member
Jun 24, 2013
44
0
6
Boise, Idaho
What normally causes this is rust on the hub bearing surface where the speed sensor goes in prevents the sensor from dropping down all the way, and at slow speeds it loses signal from excess sensor gap.


Would that still cause the abs light to stay on all the time?


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07lbzdirtymax

Member
Jun 24, 2013
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Boise, Idaho
yup. check the code before you tear things apart. you may have another bad one on the other side and dont know it.


I'll check the code but the hub and sensor on the other side isn't even a month old so I doubt it's that. The only thing I can think is that when I pulled the old sensor it had some shims/washer type things on it for whatever reason (it's the sensor that came with the hub which is timken I believe) and I transferred those shims over to the new sensor. I wonder if the new one doesn't need them and it could be causing it not to get a good reading or something?


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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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I'll check the code but the hub and sensor on the other side isn't even a month old so I doubt it's that. The only thing I can think is that when I pulled the old sensor it had some shims/washer type things on it for whatever reason (it's the sensor that came with the hub which is timken I believe) and I transferred those shims over to the new sensor. I wonder if the new one doesn't need them and it could be causing it not to get a good reading or something?


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very well could be your issue. yes its not as likely that the other one is bad but it could be. checking the code takes a sec to do and you have next to no labor in it so no reason not to just to reassure the issue.
 

redrob

New member
Apr 6, 2013
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Western Wa.
I've found that aftermarket hubs have a different air gap than oem sensor to hub surface.I played around with the air gap by filing the mounting pad down on an oem sensor to bring it closer to the reluctor and gave up when I couldn't make the surface 100% true . I ended up repairing the sensor wires that came with the aftermarket hub.