LLY: 6 codes during cold weather, few not sure about

frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
have a few codes going on

B1440-Power Mode Master Input Circuits Mismatch-

C0040-Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction

B2610-Passenger Compartment Dimming 1 Circuit

B2961-Air Flow Recirculation Door Close Line Driver Circuit Failure

B0229-Recirc Position Feedback Circuit Range/Performance

B2425-Driver Seat Cushion Heater Circuit


the B2610, B2425, and B0229 i know about, i have an autometer dimmer wired in to the dimmer circuit for led autometer gauges(B2610) the B2425 the drivers seat heater pad shows an open when i test it, happened during the cold, and the B0229 has been there since i got the truck, i just assumed it was the recirc actuator either dying or dead.

as for the rest, the c0040, no red brake light or abs light, wiring looks ok, the rubber around the wire where it bolts to the spindle is dry cracked, but no wires showing, took a quick look when i got to work, cold as balls again today

B1440, no idea on this one, i rarely have anyone in the passenger seat, all the seat controls work

also the B2691, heat and everything are working ok, any ideas on these? the c0040 will clear but come back.

does the bad seat heater have anything with the B1440? even though it says passenger?

thanks
 
Last edited:

frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
B1440 comes up as the power mode master input circuit mismatch on my site. Its cold here to, been -50 the last 2 days at Prospect creek.

Maybe the place I got my code definition is wrong? I just googled a DTC library, but looking now, I see it comes up with that mismatch definition
 

fc8464

Member
Jun 26, 2012
71
0
6
Fairbanks, Alaska
B1440 heres GMs flow chart. Looks like you might need a scan tool to diag. I would clear it all and see what comes back. Odd you don't get a ABS light with the C0040 unless it messes up and goes away before it comes on. Circuit DescriptionThe body control module (BCM) is the power mode master responsible for sending ignition switch position information on the class 2 serial data link (SDL). The BCM monitors 3 discrete wires from the ignition switch contacts and the engine run flag (ERF) in order to determine the present power mode. The BCM communicates this power mode information to all class 2 modules on the class 2 SDL. The following table represents correct BCM power mode data:
Correct Ignition Switch InputsIgnition Switch Position
Ignition Accessory
Ignition 1
Ignition 0
OFF
Inactive
Off
Off
UNLOCK
Inactive
Off
On
ACC
Active
Off
On
ON
Active
On
On
START
Inactive
On
On
DTC DescriptorThis diagnostic procedure supports the following DTC:
DTC B1440 Power Mode Master Input Circuits Mismatch
Conditions for Running the DTCThe only requirements are voltage and ground.
Conditions for Setting the DTCOne of the 3 monitored ignition switch circuits has malfunctioned. The DTC will set, if one of the following situations is present:
Incorrect Ignition Switch InputsIgnition Accessory
Ignition 1
Ignition 0
Engine Running
Inactive
On
Off
No
Active
Off
Off
No
Active
On
Off
No
Inactive
On
Off
Yes
Inactive¹
On
On
Yes
Active
Off
Off
Yes
Active
Off
On
Yes
Active
On
Off
Yes
¹ The module sets the DTC 1 minute after it detects the condition.
Action Taken When the DTC SetsThe BCM implements default actions for each ignition switch position when faults are detected.
Conditions for Clearing the DTC
  • A current DTC clears when the malfunction is no longer present.
  • A history DTC clears when the module ignition cycle counter reaches the reset threshold, without a repeat of the malfunction.
DTC B1440Step
Action
Yes
No
Schematic Reference: Body Control System Schematics
Connector End View Reference: Computer/Integrating Systems Connector End Views
1
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check – Vehicle?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle in Vehicle DTC Information
2
  1. Install a scan tool.
  2. Turn OFF the ignition.
  3. With a scan tool, monitor the following in Body Control Module, Data Display, Inputs:
    • Ignition 0
    • Ignition 1
    • Ignition Accessory
Does the scan tool indicate that all inputs are Inactive/Off?
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 6
3
  1. Install a scan tool.
  2. Turn the ignition switch to ACC.
  3. With a scan tool, monitor the following in Body Control Module, Data Display, Inputs:
    • Ignition 0
    • Ignition 1
    • Ignition Accessory
Does the scan tool indicate that the Ignition 0 and Ignition Accessory inputs are Active/On?
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 8
4
  1. Turn the ignition switch ON, with the engine OFF.
  2. With a scan tool, monitor the following in Body Control Module, Data Display, Inputs:
    • Ignition 0
    • Ignition 1
    • Ignition Accessory
Does the scan tool indicate that the all inputs are Active/On?
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 8
5
Important: The engine may start in this step. Turn the engine OFF immediately after reviewing the input data.

  1. Turn the ignition switch to START.
  2. With a scan tool, monitor the following in Body Control Module, Data Display, Inputs:
    • Ignition 0
    • Ignition 1
    • Ignition Accessory
Does the scan tool indicate that the Ignition 0 and Ignition 1 inputs are On and the Ignition Accessory input is inactive?
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 8
6
  1. Disconnect the ignition switch harness connectors.
  2. With a scan tool, monitor the following in Body Control Module, Data Display, Inputs:
    • Ignition 0
    • Ignition 1
    • Ignition Accessory
Does the scan tool indicate that any of the Ignition 0, Ignition 1 or Ignition Accessory inputs is Active/On?
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 9
7
  1. Disconnect the body control module (BCM) harness connectors.
  2. Test the suspect ignition switch input circuits for a short to voltage. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 11
8
  1. Disconnect the ignition switch connectors.
  2. Install a 3-amp fused jumper between the suspect circuits and an ignition switch B+ supply.
  3. With a scan tool, monitor the suspect circuits in Body Control Module, Data Display, Inputs:
    • Ignition 0
    • Ignition 1
    • Ignition Accessory
Does the scan tool indicate that the suspect circuits are now Active/On?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 10
9
Inspect for poor connections at the ignition switch harness connectors. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 12
10
  1. Disconnect the BCM harness connectors.
  2. Test the suspect ignition switch input circuits for a short to ground or an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 11
11
Inspect for poor connections at the BCM harness connectors. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 13
12
Replace the ignition switch. Refer to Ignition and Start Switch Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column.
Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 14

13
Replace the BCM . Refer to Control Module References for replacement, setup, and programming.
Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 14

14
  1. Reconnect all components.
  2. Use the scan tool in order to clear DTCs.
  3. Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC reset?
Go to Step 2
System OK
 

frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
thanks. i have a V2, but no tech 2, but it looks like it boils down to the ignition switch or the BCM, so if the code keeps up, i might just put an ignition switch in to start, cheapest and easiest

yeah, i thought so also on the c0040, my abs is working and haven't gotten a light yet
 

frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
Ck that RF wheel bearing Mike. I can probably get that tech 2 if needed.

Will do, its originall so its probably about time. So if the bearing is too lose it will cause the sensor to read in correctly?

Thanks, hope I don't need it but I'll let you know if I do, I ordered an ac delco ignition switch tonight, they are 26$ so worth a cheap shot.

I messed with it a little bit tonight, its doing weird stuff when you start it, some times when you use the key to start it all the normal lights light up on the IPC, sometimes all but the check engine light, same when starting with the auto start. It set the code again after starting it with the key the 2nd time messing with it, less than scientific I know.
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
28
48
Boise Idaho
Will do, its originall so its probably about time. So if the bearing is too lose it will cause the sensor to read in correctly?

Thanks, hope I don't need it but I'll let you know if I do, I ordered an ac delco ignition switch tonight, they are 26$ so worth a cheap shot.

I messed with it a little bit tonight, its doing weird stuff when you start it, some times when you use the key to start it all the normal lights light up on the IPC, sometimes all but the check engine light, same when starting with the auto start. It set the code again after starting it with the key the 2nd time messing with it, less than scientific I know.

It can... Mine developed a weird vibration at 60 on my way to the states. Pulled it Dads shop and jacked it up both were shot, 1/2" plus movement but no codes. The speed sensor is part of the sealed wheel bearing assembly.
 

frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
It can... Mine developed a weird vibration at 60 on my way to the states. Pulled it Dads shop and jacked it up both were shot, 1/2" plus movement but no codes. The speed sensor is part of the sealed wheel bearing assembly.

Gotcha,I'll get it jacked up tomorrow morning and take a look. Any suggestions on what brand of hub assembly?was looking at timkins for about 150$ a side
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
28
48
Boise Idaho
Gotcha,I'll get it jacked up tomorrow morning and take a look. Any suggestions on what brand of hub assembly?was looking at timkins for about 150$ a side

I bought the cheap china ones as I didn't have money for the good ones. Knock on wood there still going strong, 40k miles ish. I would do the timkens though.
 

frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
I bought the cheap china ones as I didn't have money for the good ones. Knock on wood there still going strong, 40k miles ish. I would do the timkens though.

gotcha, i found some cheaper GMB ones which i thought napa carried, havent looked too hard into it yet,see where they are at, truck is demanding some attention here, heated seat, misc codes, some idler pulleys making noises, and my weak cp3, it may get the cheap ones.
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
28
48
Boise Idaho
gotcha, i found some cheaper GMB ones which i thought napa carried, havent looked too hard into it yet,see where they are at, truck is demanding some attention here, heated seat, misc codes, some idler pulleys making noises, and my weak cp3, it may get the cheap ones.

Lol, mines angry too. Pulleys squeaking, steering box leaking, drivers heated seat out:(
 

frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
alright, had some time to look at it a bit, swapped out noisy pulleys, replaced drivers seat heater, and swapped out the ignition switch, maybe screwed up on that one.

Good call on the wheel bearing Albert, its not terrible but its loosey goosey for sure.

as for the B1440, got the ignition switch all disconnected after following a DIY on here for it, was fighting with the clip that holds the wiring connector to the switch, dropped said switch, caught it but by the end with the little gear on it, i may have knocked it out of time, i got it where i thought it should be , started it a few times, all good no code.

ran the batteries down, pulled it out and started it with the auto start to let it run and charge a bit, checked codes one last time, got the B1440. before it would do it rather I used the auto start or the key to start it. the auto start has been on the truck for 2-3 years installed by a good shop, could it be part of the issue? or did i screw the pooch with the switch being out of time? or is it time to move on to further diag
 
Last edited:

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
28
48
Boise Idaho
alright, had some time to look at it a bit, swapped out noisy pulleys, replaced drivers seat heater, and swapped out the ignition switch, maybe screwed up on that one.

Good call on the wheel bearing Albert, its not terrible but its loosey goosey for sure.

as for the B1440, got the ignition switch all disconnected after following a DIY on here for it, was fighting with the clip that holds the wiring connector to the switch, dropped said switch, caught it but by the end with the little gear on it, i may have knocked it out of time, i got it where i thought it should be , started it a few times, all good no code.

ran the batteries down, pulled it out and started it with the auto start to let it run and charge a bit, checked codes one last time, got the B1440. before it would do it rather I used the auto start or the key to start it. the auto start has been on the truck for 2-3 years installed by a good shop, could it be part of the issue? or did i screw the pooch with the switch being out of time? or is it time to move on to further diag

Are you sure it's turning all the way off with the key Mike?
 

frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
Im pretty sure, cycling the key to the on position, all lights, lift pump, radio, turn the key all the way back, kills engine, lift pump(tapped into a fuse in the underhood box) dash lights and radio turn off when I open the door.
 

frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
well i have made approx 0 progress, went on vacation, got some hub assemblies ordered, ended up with the cheaper gmb's, got them with free shipping from amazon, shipping for the timkins was stupid, hopefully get it on the rack next weekend, had to put chains in my father in laws skidsteer this weekend.
 

frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
alright, so about 2 weeks ago I replaced the hub assemblies as well as pads and rotors, have it few days, checked for codes, had the same ones, cleared and waited anther week or so. I have also cleaned off the ground on the body mount under the driver seat for the abs module, down to bare metal


then i look and i have all the codes, there are a few im still not concerned with, the b2610. b0229.

but all the other ones, the U1009 is for invalid/missing engine torque data, as well as the right front speed sensor code is still there.

any ideas on the code lists? was thinking about going through and checking my grounds? Seems like a lot of issues all over, these are all stored codes, the CEL is not on.

thanks
 

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frankenstien

Member
May 25, 2015
587
2
18
Fairbanks,Alaska
Circling back around to this. Ill start with the new fun thing its doing.

If you turn the Hvac to foot/face, it will work for a minute or 2, then the air will start surging on the face vents, and eventually stop and only go to feet. I can use the face or the feet and it works fine, it is the same with AC on or OFF. I am guessing i have a blend door that is sad?

Current code list(little different from original)

C0040-Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction-Still there after new hub replacement

C0201-Antilock Brake System (ABS) Enable Relay Contact Circuit

B0229-HVAC recirculation actuator? thats what google comes up with, and my re circ button doesnt stay lit, iirc it flashes

U1000-Class 2 Data Link Malfunction-maybe cause the Edge Insight? it freezes now and again

B1440-Power Mode Master Input Circuits Mismatch

B2610-passenger compartment dimming 1 circuit- i have an inline dimmer switch for my pod gauges

B2961-Air Flow Recirculation door close line driver circuit failure--I think this is the one for the issue for my foot/face air flow issue?


other things that might have something to do with any of this.....

the drives side seat goes forward when you press the switch to go back, same for forward, it goes back. I think there is a TSB on this for a reprogram, but i cant find it

I know the EBCM has the issue with the soldered contacts, in the winter time super cold, i get the red brake light and abs light and service brake system on dash

I was having some issues with my passenger side heated seat at the end of winter, then started working again, I'm guessing a bad wire or connector, but is currently working

does anyone know the location of the blend doors? I know replacing them is a whole bunch of suck, but im guessing im going to have to. sounds like from previous answer i need to get a tech 2 to deal with the B1440, will one of the Chinese one work?

any input or other ideas would be great