Question: 2011+ hub/bearing/brake swap to pre 2010

[Bob H]

Ok, I'm very comfortable with modifying and custom fittings/grinding/etc..., and before I go buying parts to start down this road, I'd like to see what I'm missing. Truck in question is a 2003 2500HD 4wd. Lowered all around, spindles and keys, shackles and relocated front leaf mount. About a 6" drop overall - still high enough that the lower air dam clears concrete parking barriers. I mention that so you don't think it's slammed.

Only real reference thread to the 2011+ brakes I found in my research:
https://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27067&highlight=2011+brakes

Background:
I have 2015 OEM 20" tires and rims on my 2003. It is lowered, and I am using hub-centric adapters (1.5" front, 2" rear). They work great - except since mine is lowered, (Spindles and keys), the tires touch/rub the splash guard at close to full lock. Just barely, but enough it will slowly wear a hole in the back of the splash guard every few months. I don't want to go to a smaller diameter tire, as I like what OEM affords me as far as choices for replacements/etc..

I have already done the fender mod and in addition, the pinch weld was already modified down flat from the previous owner. So short version - I have the splash guard as far back as it can possibly go. Because of the adapters, the wheel sits physically 1.5" further out - and as a result, at close to full lock, that extra spacing causes it to rub where a non adapted wheel wouldn't.

GOAL:
What I'd like to do is find a way to get the 2011 hub setup (and brakes) on mine, eliminating the need for the adapter/spacer.

What I've found so far/questions:
The 2011+ 4wd hub appears to be the same bolt patter as the earlier versions. I wanted to know if anyone can verify if the newer (2011+) hub can physically bolt onto the older spindles? I have some links at the end where I was using for a visual reference.

Of course, that only goes so far. While I could drill the hats of the older rotors, I don't know if the hub face is in the same physical location. I could also re-drill the old hub, but I think the wider bolt pattern would push the studs too far to the outside of the hub face, so I'm not too comfortable with that option.

So the better option is to swap over the 2011+ rotors and brakes if that is possible. What I don't know - how close are the brake bolt holes in the older spindle to where the newer brakes would need to bolt in order to be centered and spaced properly?

I also don't mind making an adapter, (would need sufficient room to make a very robust adapter as I don't like to mess around with brakes and insufficient mounting points, esp. on a 7000lb truck).
I'd love to just give it a try - but I don't have a set of 2011+ hubs/brakes to mock-up. Now if someone wants to donate to the cause - I'm happy to mock up and give it a go!

This could all be tried on the bench so to speak - older spindle, newer hub and brake assy. See how it works or how close. Every one that is parting a 2011+ 4wd out wants a fortune for the brakes and hub - and I was trying to keep my testing funds to less than new parts.

And the last piece - I'm not sure if the front axle splines on the 2011+ are bigger/different than the older ones - so I might have to swap front axles as well, maybe the diff and axles. Yes, I'm willing to consider all these things - I've done plenty of other custom mods making it look factory, and this would be yet another step.

Parts already swapped:
I have a 2011 Hydroboost and PS pump. I did not swap the master cylinder, but if I do swap the front brakes, I am willing to do that as well, (and I'm aware of what is required to make it work).

I'm currently working out how to adapt the Escalade Platinum cooled seats into mine, so I'm no stranger to custom and figuring out what can make it work like OEM when it wasn't an option. Already did all kinds of other swaps on my current truck- have a full LBZ swap, did the Luxury Bose amp and touch nav swap, and a number of other mods, so this is just a natural next step for me. I guess I can't just leave well enough alone...

Some reference links:
2011+ 4wd 2500HD front hub from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/DuraGo-29594043-Front-Hub-Assembly/dp/B01MQYMQ5D/

2009 4wd 2500HD front hub from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/DuraGo-29515098-Front-Hub-Assembly/dp/B00LFL874Y/

2003 4wd 2500HD front hub from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/DuraGo-29515058-Front-Hub-Assembly/dp/B0067UDS8S/

 

[gmduramax]

Would it be easier to just use the 2011 spindle. Would be easy enough to see if the older ball joints slide in. I would imagine everything else would bolt up.

 

[TheBac]

Time to go to your local parts house with a measuring tool and ask to see both sets of ball joints and hubs and compare them. Could also use RockAuto to compare both, but its better in person. Been there with other projects....thats the only way to do it. Good luck with your project.

 

[Chevy1925]

You’re better off redrilling brake rotors and making adapters for the calipers.

Putting a lml knuckle on won’t work, too many differences like height, tie rod position, sai, scrub radius, etc from old gen to new.

Highly doubt lml hubs will bolt to the old style knuckles but that’s worth a shot, might work.

Cv axles should be the same as long as spline count is the same.

Abs tooth count would need to be confirmed on lml hub vs older gen.

 

[darkness]

I know you want to keep the 20” wheels, why not get the right wheels for the truck and remove the spacer/adapter? Might be able to find a factory knock off even.

 

[TheBac]

Did a little research, the newer hubs will not swap into the older spindles. Bolt pattern of the new hubs is completely different (two of the bolt holes are spaced closer together).

 

[Bob H]

Sorry - had a week from hell - and notifications were turned off!

Tom,
Thanks for checking. Bummer on the holes - I was thinking that might be the case, but couldn't quite tell from the pictures.

Interesting thought on swapping over the spindle but agree, the angles/etc.. would likely all be off.

And yes, they make a factory knock-off of the rims I have, but I'm always skeptical of aftermarket when you are putting heavy weight on them, (towing heavy loads). That's why I wanted to stick with OEM. I'll keep evaluating, but it sucks that it likely is a wash and won't work.
Thanks for the replies - I'll likely run to a NAPA and ask them to pull both to verify as well.