2005 lly crank no start after sitting a month

[Bigturba]

Hey guys new to the page but not a duramax! Already had 5 with lots of good power but this is the first with a crank no start.
So here we go, have a 2005 lly that I bought about 2 months ago. Prior to buying it the truck would have a lope at idle after being warm, injector 4 would not read a balance rate after it was warned up and figured it was in the wiring harness. Pulled the truck apart and the harness was pretty bad a lot of broken and rubbed threw wires so figure I’d just buy a new one and eliminate the problem. Also installed a HSP y bridge and a DHD high flow fuel block with a 1/2 cp3 feed line, and also a new driver side fuel rail with a PPE race plug cause I could not get the old plug out as it was stripped pretty bad. Truck has a built motor with 50% reman injectors and a 10mm reman cp3 from previous owner. Have all paper work for build so I know it all done. Truck sat for a month and after getting back together it would crank and not start, Shot some brake cleaner in to see if it would start and it fired for like 3 seconds and died and threw a p0090 code so I replaced the FPR with a new Bosch unit, got it all back together and still won’t start, I prime the system and got the air out and nothing. When I crank the truck over it reads 300psi rail pressure cranking. Also attached is all the codes that I pulled with my efi V2. Truck also has a history of class 2 data link low night voltage. Any suggestions would be great! Also I did find out when I put the fuel feed line in I did not think of it to check the fuel line as it was new but I looked inside the chunk I cut off and it was pretty dirty... wondering if it could of clogged and failed my cp3.

 

[quinton]

Don’t see attached codes, if you have a lift pump crack the line at the cp3 and let it pump fuel to it until you see it coming out then tighten line back up. Sometimes a little air pocket can cause this. I’ve had a few do this. Easier with two guys so it doesn’t make as big a mess.

 

[Bigturba]

Wonder why It wouldn’t post the attachment. Still showing code p0090 and a lot of BCM codes and also the u1301 codes for the Data link. Are you talking about the supply line or cracking the high pressure line feeding the rail?

 

[Bigturba]

 

[quinton]

Supply line from lift pump/fuel tank.

 

[quinton]

Disconnect fpr plug and try t start it and see what cranking rail pressure is while trying. It may start just sound rough.

 

[Bigturba]

Truck has a lift pump, I pulled supply off and let fuel run threw until there was no air, after new harness a fpr was installed I did try to unplug it and start but same crank no start but I did not check fuel rail pressure with it unplugged I will try that again and report back what it reads with it unplugged.

 

[quinton]

Make sure it shows commanding and actual rail pressure. Should be maxed out.l for both while cranking.

 

[quinton]

And did you reconnect the supply line while fuel was still coming out? I have had one still not build pressure by turning key off then connecting fuel line. I had to let fuel continue pumping out while connecting back to cp3.

 

[TheBac]

Check all your new electrical connections and grounds, esp at the bail connectors and the lower front of the engine.

 

[Bigturba]

I left the pump running with fuel coming out of the line when I re hooked it up made quite the mess but I knew forsure there was no air up to that point. When I unplugged the fpr it called for 100% but rail pressure was still only 300 psi at cranking. If I unplugged the fuel rail erasure sensor it would max it out so I know that is working right. Also still wouldn’t start with it unplugged. Also all new harness was connected correctly with a little bit of dielectric grease on all connectors. And made sure they all clicked into place. Bail connectors are good and tight I checked all the pins and wires to make sure they where tight and In place. I pulled fuse box up and looked under it and found 2 more wires with the coating cracked so I re spliced those still no luck. I know these trucks need about 1500 psi rail pressure to even try and start.

 

[Bigturba]

I left the pump running with fuel coming out of the line when I re hooked it up made quite the mess but I knew forsure there was no air up to that point. When I unplugged the fpr it called for 100% but rail pressure was still only 300 psi at cranking. If I unplugged the fuel rail erasure sensor it would max it out so I know that is working right. Also still wouldn’t start with it unplugged. Also all new harness was connected correctly with a little bit of dielectric grease on all connectors. And made sure they all clicked into place. Bail connectors are good and tight I checked all the pins and wires to make sure they where tight and In place. I pulled fuse box up and looked under it and found 2 more wires with the coating cracked so I re spliced those still no luck. I know these trucks need about 1500 psi rail pressure to even try and start.

Also checked grounds on passenger side of block and cleaned those, cleaned and check grounds under driver door on frame rail. And checked ground on driver side of block. They all look good.

 

[quinton]

You pulled complete motor apart or just wire harness and fuel system? If the truck ran before with same pump and injectors then it’s more than likely you did something in reinstall.

 

[ironmax]

Check return fuel lines, cause it's easy, and cheap. What was in the fuel line that looked (dirty)....?

 

[Bigturba]

You pulled complete motor apart or just wire harness and fuel system? If the truck ran before with same pump and injectors then it’s more than likely you did something in reinstall.

Yes motor ran before I tore it apart. Seemed to have a fuel knock at mid rpm when engine was cold but would go away once it was warm and had a lope at idle once engine was warm. Hooked my snap on scanner to it and looked at the injector commands and number 4 was not reading when it was warm But reading when it was cold. Made me think it had to do with something in the harness which when I pulled it injector 4 pig tail had cracked wire insulation. Now after everything was changed out and no start it makes me wonder if I hooked something up wrong or if the cp3 got derbies in it from that dirty fuel line after fuel block feeding The cp3 and caused it to do something funky. I re checked the harness 3 times and this would be my 3rd lly that I have pulled the harness off of so I know how all plugs are routed and which one goes to what. Also 2 other truck I have put this same DHD high flow fuel block in and haven’t had a problem.

You pulled complete motor apart or just wire harness and fuel system? If the truck ran before with same pump and injectors then it’s more than likely you did something in reinstall.

yes, motor ran before all this but when it was cold it would fuel knock at mid rpm but would go away after it was warm, and once it was warm to it would have a lope at idle. Sounded as if a injector wasn’t firing. Hooked my snap on scanner up when the truck was loping and injector 4 wasn’t reading tried to shut #4 of to see if it would stop the lope and made no difference. Once harness was pulled injector 4 pig tail had both wires cracked. New harness is hooked up correctly and has been checked 3 times to make sure. Fuel wise also has been hooked up correctly and feed lines and return lines have been replaced. Could just have a pocket of air in the system yet that hasn’t pushed out. Is they any way to bleed the system after the cp3?

 

[Bigturba]

Check return fuel lines, cause it's easy, and cheap. What was in the fuel line that looked (dirty)....?

Found a leak at one line coming out of the cp3 Return but that has been fixed otherwise all others look good. The dirty fuel supply line I got had a oil residue in it and what looks to be dirt or small rubber bits. It was a brand new line so never thought anything to look inside it until I looked in the chunk I cut off after the fact that it didn’t start and realized whatever was in that line had a direct shot right into the cp3.

 

[quinton]

It should bleed itself out of the system. Did you remove cp3 gear? Maybe try running it for a bit off starter fluid to see if it will
Push it through.

 

[Bigturba]

It should bleed itself out of the system. Did you remove cp3 gear? Maybe try running it for a bit off starter fluid to see if it will
Push it through.

Did not remove the cp3 gear, and is there anything better then starting fluid that I could run it on that won’t hurt the motor or have a chance of running away lol?

 

[DAVe3283]

Be very careful with starting fluid. If you disable the glow plugs, that lowers the risk of engine damage, but I still recommend staying away from starting aids on a Duramax.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

[Bigturba]

Be very careful with starting fluid. If you disable the glow plugs, that lowers the risk of engine damage, but I still recommend staying away from starting aids on a Duramax.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

Yeah that’s why I don’t wanna do it if I don’t have to!