Hey bought this 2003 duramax off a guy took it for a test drive and ran awesome everything good, make the deal he takes off and i go and park truck. go to start it again and it would not fire. I message the guy he says quick shot of ether and it starts so I looked into it a bit and figured maybe there was a fuel problem so started by changing fuel filter and still no fire I could prime the crap out of it and go try and crank and then come back and the primer was soft again. So had to atleast get it started so gave it quick shot of wd-40 and fired right up and noticed at idle it would surge on and off and at times not do it. take it down the road and floor it and has normal power but yet shut it off and then instantly crank key again and would not fire.. Any Idea or suggestions Appreciated thanks!!
2003 Duramax Dont Start on own and surges
- Thread starter renegadeguy
- Start date
The First thing everyone here is going to ask is there a CEL on? If so do you have any way to read codes?
Second thing I think could be a contributing factor is the filter head, it may be leaking...a filter head rebuild is cheap and easy...adding a lift pump and deleting the factory fuel filter head is a possibility as well.
And me personally
I DEFINITELY WOULDN'T USE EITHER AND ID BE HESITANT TO USE ANY" STARTING AIDS ON A DURAMAX!!!
Be careful
And me personally
I DEFINITELY WOULDN'T USE EITHER AND ID BE HESITANT TO USE ANY" STARTING AIDS ON A DURAMAX!!!
Be careful
Prime the filter head and bleed it a couple times if ya keep getting air or loosing a firm button, good chance ya got a leaking filter head as said/\ /\ above. Does it have a haze as it idles with the lope?
Sent from a greasy hand under the hood of my buddys truck.
Sent from a greasy hand under the hood of my buddys truck.
First of all NEVER USE ANY TYPE OF STARTING FLUID EVER
Second. Don't just prime the filter head you also have to crack open the bleeder and see if any air comes out that way when you prime it it won't go soft again unless you have a leak, if it still goes soft then rebuild it, its really cheap and easy to do.
And yes it wouldn't hurt to run a cheap scanner on it and check for codes.
Second. Don't just prime the filter head you also have to crack open the bleeder and see if any air comes out that way when you prime it it won't go soft again unless you have a leak, if it still goes soft then rebuild it, its really cheap and easy to do.
And yes it wouldn't hurt to run a cheap scanner on it and check for codes.
Thanks Guys, Truck has no engine lights, It wont fire cold or warmnot even 1second after shutting down truck after taking for 15 minute drive, seems odd that it wont get fuel to start and not enought for it to idle properly but yet on the gas you can floor it and all is good. I will have to look into the filter head rebuild and try that, also I searched around abit and do you guys think it could be the fuel pressure reguator? yes i have primed it and bled it and fuel pours out then prime and crank motor then go back and repeat with no luck
It could be the FCA or CP3, but, lets not go there yet. Most likely, its the fuel filter housing that has developed a leak and is causing a loss of prime condition.
Try priming it, and bleeding it a few times. If the primer still goes soft... rebuild the head, its a cheap and easy place to start.
Try priming it, and bleeding it a few times. If the primer still goes soft... rebuild the head, its a cheap and easy place to start.
try again greg :thumb: you should know that surging regulator on yours sucks and still runs cherry once you get it off idle.
Brent@lds asked if it started cold because fuel thins out after the truck runs and fuel temp comes up....think about it!
if you rebuild the filter head and still have a starting issue then on to the next paragraph
And finally If i had to put a finger on it, lets assume an injector is returning too much fuel. Use a tech2 and look at command MM3 in the engine data 2 section. I bet you'll find one that is higher than .53-.55mm3 while its running. That usually indicating an injector being driven harder then the rest as because its wore out and returning too much fuel. Balance rates can still look good. Usually in my experience, a returning injector will show a bad balance rate on a cold start, and even out after it warms up. Look at command mm3 and get back to us!
I would do the filter head before we start worrying about injectors or CP3, did the guy say it has injectors done recently?
ok I will start by doing the filter head and see from there. the guy did say injectors were just done on it not very long before I got it
The guy said the same about my old truck, come to find out they were from napa and were about as good as nothing
And you got another truck from him????????????? If injectors are bad it will be no ones fault but your own for buying a guy like that...
Good luck
Reminds me of an old skit by Jeff Foxworthy, " No sorry sir I have no money I just lost my job and my account is empty, wait you take checks? A check? Hell yeah I can write you a check!"
Sounds to me like you got 2 trucks from the same guy... Correct me if I am wrong, there is a guy close to local here who sells nothing but 6.0 powerchokes, 07 6.7 cummins and eary 03-04 cummins, and LB7 trucks he does nothing but burn people over and over and yet people go back to him because his trucks are cheap... After repairs all money saved is out the window
