03 Chevy Duramax won't start. Please help

njsupraking

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Dec 19, 2016
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Hello,

To start I am new to Diesels, I have worked on cars my whole life just not diesels. The other night I went to drive my 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax which I didn't drive the day before so it was just sitting for only a day. It was cold that night about 20 degrees. The truck started up and then died right away. I thought it was just too cold for the truck to start. I was in a rush so I just took my other car. The next day it was a little warmer but I plugged the block heater in and left it plugged in for about an hour thinking it would start easier. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start up still. I changed the fuel filter thinking it got clogged or something. Bled the air out of the bleeder and still didn't start up. I check all the fuses and they were all good. So I then scanned the truck to see if it threw a engine code. It did the engine code was glow plug/heater circuit "A" P0380. I then started checking the relay for it. Pulled that block off with the relays in it and tested output voltage and it wasn't getting 12 volts so it was bad. I went to the parts store to buy new relay but they didn't have one so just to see if that was the issue and if it would fire up I switch relays with the air intake heater to see if the truck would start up with the good relay in the glow plug spot. I put the block back together and put it on the truck and put everything back together. The truck still wouldn't start just would crank over and over and not start up. So I cleared the engine codes for the P0380 for the glow plugs and tryed to start it again. Still wouldn't start. Scan the truck for engine codes and it was throwing the 2 engine codes which were both "Air intake heater code P0540" which I figured it would because it had the bad relay in for that. Would the air intake heater cause it not to start the truck? Can someone please help me figure out why the truck won't start?


Any help would be appreciated thanks.
 

DAVe3283

Heavy & Slow
Sep 3, 2009
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Boise, ID, USA
I removed my intake air heater and my truck starts fine down below 19°F so far. That isn't your problem.

What could have happened is the fuel filter head leaked and got air in the fuel. It is also possible the fuel gelled up.

You are going to have to use a scanner and watch the actual fuel rail pressure while you crank. It needs to get up to 20 MPa (or maybe just 10?) before it will be able to start. If that isn't happening, it is probably air in the lines or gelled fuel still.

Sent from my FlashScan V2
 

njsupraking

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Dec 19, 2016
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Thanks for the reply. I don't believe my scanner tells me the actual fuel rail pressure. If it doesn't is there any other way to tell if there is air or gelled fuel? The fuel that was coming out of the bleeder looked fine if that helps any.
 

JRein

Aircraft Mechanic's Hero
Sep 26, 2015
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LRAFB, Arkansas
Try building up pressure with the primer on the filter head unit and check it a while later. It should only take a pump to get it solid, especially after cranking, and you shouldn't lose much if any pressure.

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njsupraking

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Dec 19, 2016
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If I prime it by pumping it up and it gets hard and crank the truck over and the check again I have to pump the primer up three or four times(Pushes) to get it really hard again is that normal?
 

njsupraking

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Dec 19, 2016
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I even tried priming it while trying to crank over the engine and it still didn't start up if there was air in the lines wouldn't doing this start the truck? @JRein


Try building up pressure with the primer on the filter head unit and check it a while later. It should only take a pump to get it solid, especially after cranking, and you shouldn't lose much if any pressure.

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njsupraking

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Dec 19, 2016
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Thanks for the reply. I don't believe my scanner tells me the actual fuel rail pressure. If it doesn't is there any other way to tell if there is air or gelled fuel? The fuel that was coming out of the bleeder looked fine if that helps any. @Dave3283
 

DAVe3283

Heavy & Slow
Sep 3, 2009
3,727
296
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Boise, ID, USA
If it was gelled, it wouldn't come out the bleeder. Air is hard to detect, you really need a scan tool at this point.

Sent from my FlashScan V2
 

skintback

Take this one to church
Mar 5, 2007
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I would replace the fuel filter housing with a 04.5/2010 model from the dealer comes 100% complete you can make that one work with longer 1/2'' fuel line and bleed it from the test port by the alternator and ficm. sounds to me like there is still air in the system and most time comes from a bad filter housing after sitting.
 

njsupraking

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Dec 19, 2016
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I charged the batteries and tried priming and cranking the engine over and it didn't start but I had my scan tool on while doing this to see if it would tell me live data and it wouldn't but it gave me a freeze frame when the air intake heater code got thrown and it said fuel pressure 232psi. I'm not sure if this is fuel rail pressure or what. Or what sensor it took this number from. Does this sound about normal? Also when I used the scan tool to find out the fuel pressure there was a engine code for the crankshaft positioning sensor P0335. I cleared the code and tried too start it again 3 times and the code didn't come back yet. Would it throw this code from trying to start the truck over and over again without it actually starting up? Would this code cause it not to start?

If it was gelled, it wouldn't come out the bleeder. Air is hard to detect, you really need a scan tool at this point.

Sent from my FlashScan V2
 

njsupraking

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Dec 19, 2016
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What is the difference between the the fuel filter assembly I have and the 04.5/2010 model Fuel filter assembly? You wouldn't recommend just doing a rebuild on my fuel filter assembly? Would it still be leaking even though there is no visual fuel leaks with the fuel filter assembly?

I would replace the fuel filter housing with a 04.5/2010 model from the dealer comes 100% complete you can make that one work with longer 1/2'' fuel line and bleed it from the test port by the alternator and ficm. sounds to me like there is still air in the system and most time comes from a bad filter housing after sitting.
 

JerryL

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Feb 9, 2010
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Emporia, Ks.
Did you ever get it fixed? I am having the same problem with by 2002. It was about 5 - 10 degrees outside. After heating glow plugs it was slow cranking so I heated 2x more and it started for about 10 seconds and died while I was backing up. I though about gelled fuel so I waited till it was over 40 degrees outside for a few hours. It still won't start though it cranks at a good rate.
 

jlawles2

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2010
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Danbury, TX
Did you ever get it fixed? I am having the same problem with by 2002. It was about 5 - 10 degrees outside. After heating glow plugs it was slow cranking so I heated 2x more and it started for about 10 seconds and died while I was backing up. I though about gelled fuel so I waited till it was over 40 degrees outside for a few hours. It still won't start though it cranks at a good rate.

Even at 40 degrees, the fuel could be much lower. Since the Duramax uses a "vacuum" fuel delivery system, fuel will gel at a slightly higher temp that what it shows. Remember the more mass (weight) the longer it takes to give up or take on heat. You might need to try some Diesel 911 or something like that. Also check to see that you are using winter fuel.
 

Awenta

Active member
Sep 28, 2014
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CT
What is the difference between the the fuel filter assembly I have and the 04.5/2010 model Fuel filter assembly? You wouldn't recommend just doing a rebuild on my fuel filter assembly? Would it still be leaking even though there is no visual fuel leaks with the fuel filter assembly?



The 04.5 and newer filter heads are a lot cheaper and you just need longer fuel lines.

http://lincolndieselspecialties.com/i-23846250-gm-fuel-filter-housing-with-filter.html


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njsupraking

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Dec 19, 2016
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Okay so I pumped up primer and checked the first start valve for air it had some. Then primed and tried to start truck then primed again then let air out of valve. did this until no more air came out but it still didn't fire. I changed the intake heater relay and now its not throwing any codes but still wont fire. On my scanner for live data it the fuel pressure only went up to 290psi. I don't think its fuel rail pressure. Would a bad fuel filter assembly cause to only have 290psi fuel pressure while cranking? What else can it be or can I try?
 

JerryL

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Feb 9, 2010
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Emporia, Ks.
'02 Won't start

I HAD the same problem (possibly) with my '02 as the '03 that wouldn't start.

Finally after Christmas and after company left I had a chance to try the fuel filter primer. Long story short: after pumping and bleeding it only enough to verify fuel was present it still didn't start. Then I remembered how long I have to crank after filter replacement so I pumped primer again and it started in about 5 seconds. Headed out for fuel. On my way to get fuel, at about 2-3 miles down the highway it ran a little rough for about 1/4 mile then smoothed out. I added about 3/4 tank of diesel and took it for a drive. Everything seems great.

THANKS to ALL for the suggestions!

JerryL

PS. If it happens again, does it sound like I need to replace the filter assembly because it might be leaking air into it?
 

njsupraking

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Dec 19, 2016
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I tried pumping and priming it several of times and bleeding it about 10 or more times including checking for air from the first start valve by the alternator and still nothing wont start. I changed all the relays and now not throwing any codes anymore but still wont start. Anyone else have any ideas at all? Is the newer style filter head the one with a slight bend on the fuel line or is it the one that is straight down?