read motor plate

[03dmaxin]

does anybody have a diagram of everything you pull off to beable to mount up my engine to a stand to flip it and pul the oil pan so any advice helps thanks guys

[hondarider552]

Remove the rear aluminum cover.

[03dmaxin]

yea what all do i have to take off i already have the heads and turbo off so its basically a short block and i unbolted a bunch of boats but its actin like i have a bolt somewhere thats not undone..do i have to unbolt any of the oil pan bolts or no?

thanks for the advise

[ripmf666]

Yes you have to remove the bottom black oil pan and remove the bolts that hold the rear adapter from the inside. There is a spor called Gm specs here that shows everything that you need.

[Jarasic]

There are at least three hex head upper oil pan bolts that need to be removed to remove the rear adapter plate and two small 12mm head bolts that bolt to the oil cooler (on oil filter). Just pulled one apart. Let me know if you need anything else.

ripmf666 beat me to it.

[03dmaxin]

ok ima go remove the black oil pan and let u know how turns out after that i appreciate it big time guys

[03dmaxin]

jarasic if u dont mind can u give me a call on my cell to let me know what else i need to do so i dont have to keep walkin in and out to get on the comp.
thanks
dallas
1-337-368-1750

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

So you need to remove the flexplate, and bottom oil pan to be able to use an engine stand?

[TheBac]

Originally Posted by x MadMAX DIESEL

So you need to remove the flexplate, and bottom oil pan to be able to use an engine stand?

No, you just need longer bolts (110mm long IIRC). Use the two upper holes on either side of the top trans bolt hole and the two lowest holes in the honeycomb area of the rear cover that run into the block.

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

It said in a GM service guide not to run bolts throught the adapter plate. If you or anyone else has done this without issue I don't see it being a problem, it would make life easier.

http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/...mounting+stand

[TheBac]

IMO, for temporary, theres nothing wrong with it. Could be they worry about the weight of the engine starting to deform the aluminum into the stand mounts after a period of time.
Do what you feel is correct.

[ripmf666]

Originally Posted by TheBac

IMO, for temporary, theres nothing wrong with it. Could be they worry about the weight of the engine starting to deform the aluminum into the stand mounts after a period of time.
Do what you feel is correct.

Tom if he wants to remove the crank the rear adapter has to come off before the stand. But heck we always rear down while still on the ground then hanging in the air. The reason gm does not want you to bolt to engine stand is most would use the trans bolt holes. And there more of a insert and will pull out or strip easy.

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

But using longer bolts it would go thru the plate and screw into the block? I'm I understanding that correctly? If you use the short trans bolts only that is when the potential problem starts, and it would only be able to grab the threaded aluminum of the plate holes?

[TheBac]

Originally Posted by ripmf666

Tom if he wants to remove the crank the rear adapter has to come off before the stand. But heck we always rear down while still on the ground then hanging in the air. The reason gm does not want you to bolt to engine stand is most would use the trans bolt holes. And there more of a insert and will pull out or strip easy.

True about the crank. Of course you shouldnt use the trans bosses
I bolted thru the adapter into the block, x.

That pic is getting a lot of mileage.

[blk smoke lb7]

Originally Posted by x MadMAX DIESEL

So you need to remove the flexplate, and bottom oil pan to be able to use an engine stand?

I didnt i just got long bolts and a different length addapters (3/8ths or 1/2 pipe nipples) and took 4 of the 17 mm bolts out of the rear addapter and bolted to the block thru the adapter. WHAT EVER YOU DO DONT USE THE OUTTER 15 MM BOLT HOLES THE EGNIGES WEIGHT WILL SNAP THEM MOST OF THE TIME